spruce strip canoe/kayak?

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MFriendly
Posts: 8
Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2012 11:19 am

spruce strip canoe/kayak?

Post by MFriendly »

Hi all: I am pondering my second build after nearly completing my cedar and ash resolute. Probably a slighly larger kayak (endeavour?) but maybe a prospector canoe.

I really enjoy working with the western red cedar because of its variation in color and grain, but am increasingly concerned about the toxicity of the dust. I try to minimize the dust (dust collector, sanding mostly outside etc), but find that my skin gets irritated by handing the cedar as well. Clear cedar is also a bit pricy where I am, although I realize that the cost of the wood is not huge relative to other costs (glass, epoxy, fittings).

I am thinking about making a boat from white spruce. I really like the look of a pale colored boat with simple dark accents (cherry, perhaps). In numerous places, I see references to spruce being good substitute for cedar for making strip boats, but there seem to have been very few people to actually use it other than for gunwhales on canoes and occasional accent pieces on canoes and kayaks. Try to find a picture of a spruce stripper online.... does not exist. Also, spruce if referred to, is most often sitka , and almost nothing about white spruce. So people talk about white spruce, but it is rarely used.... I wonder why?

I have learned from bits and pieces of info that spruce is slightly heavier than red cedar, which could be compensated for by making strips a bit thinner than 1/4" if desired. Also saw comment about not using wood cut from 2x4 because they are typically from smaller trees with looser grain (ie., use 2x8 or 2x10) because of tighter growth rings. I think I could make a boat out of a couple of 2x10s for about 20$ worth of wood... or even cut my own tree down and make the whole project a real DIY event!

I am interested in anyones experience using white spruce, and why it is not used more (it is such a widespread species). Does is hold bead and cover without splintering? Are glue lines more prominent and glue stains harder to remove? Is is just too uniform and bland? Is it too hard to get long clear pieces? I am not concerned about the latter, because I frankly found shorter strips alot easier to work with on my resolute, and butt joints are barely visible when color matched.

Somebody talk me out of this.... if you can

thanks!
Stencil
Posts: 43
Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 9:01 am

Re: spruce strip canoe/kayak?

Post by Stencil »

Well I won't try and talk you out of using White Spruce. I am a strong advocate of using wood from the the area in which you live. I live in cedar country and I like cedar for a lot of reasons so I use it. White Spruce is not much heavier than cedar and it is stronger. Historically people built boats from materials at hand. So go for it.
As regards sanding dust. Connect a shop vac to your sanders dust port and you will eliminate most of the dust. Secondly wear a good respirator not just a dust mask. These are not expensive at industrial suppliers and they have replaceable filters. Wood dust of any kind is a carcinogen so protect yourself.
Have fun.
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Glen Smith
Posts: 3719
Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:08 am
Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada

Re: spruce strip canoe/kayak?

Post by Glen Smith »

I never used spruce because in my area it is only available as construction grade lumber which is often warped or cupped and has too many knots to be feasible.
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