Hi all,
I am building at 20'8" tandem and the longest cedar I could get was 20'. As you can imagine, since the strips have to go around the hull, near the sheer clamp (including the sheer clamp) at the bottom (boat upside down of course), it is going to be short for 8 or 9 strips on the hull. I think I should be OK on the deck if I anticipate the openings and cut at one of them to make the length with each strip.
However, any recommendations on where to splice on these 8 or 9 strips? I suspect I don't want them all together but about how far apart should the splices be as I go up the hull to keep it from looking obvious that my strips were too short.
Thanks in advance,
Bob Baird
Where to splice strips and sheer clamp
Re: Where to splice strips and sheer clamp
because there was no strips over 3m available to me, almost every single strip on my build had to be scarfed. with the paulownia unless you look carefully the joints blend in. the western red cedar on the other hand is more obvious. i spread mine mostly 1 station apart, but when i got to the last few either side i cut that down to 1/2 a station apart. rather than try and hide them i tried to give them a pattern to form a feature.
Re: Where to splice strips and sheer clamp
I bead and cove, and this is a great aid in splicing.
Usually I splice between the forms. A spring clamp is about all I use.
Avoid areas that might stress the strip, the center form is one of those. Areas that tend to need twisted are another to avoid.
Good luck !
Jim
Usually I splice between the forms. A spring clamp is about all I use.
Avoid areas that might stress the strip, the center form is one of those. Areas that tend to need twisted are another to avoid.
Good luck !
Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!
Re: Where to splice strips and sheer clamp
Thanks, very helpful.
Re: Where to splice strips and sheer clamp
To speed up the building process I used cryanoacrylate (Krazy glue,super glue, hot stuff) to glue my scarfs. I used an accelerator to set the glue. I havent had an issue and my joints are virtually invisible unless the wood colour changes significantly. it was real handy if I ran into grain issues or knots/blemishes. I used them near the stem where the strips took a hard twist and had no issues with delamination.