Station Positioning
Station Positioning
I have wanted to build a canoe for 40 some years and now I have the time. I,m an old Patternmaker from the Navy and this is right up my alley. I have a question about the positioning of the stations. I,m assuming they are 1 foot on center and the thickness of the station forms are 3/4". Would I put the forms on center or place them inboard of center line because the strips will only hit one corner of the form except for station 0 and maybe 1.
-
- Posts: 196
- Joined: Tue Aug 18, 2009 7:00 pm
Re: Station Positioning
You got it. That way the strips touch right at the 1' station increments, exactly where they need to be.
-JIM-
Re: Station Positioning
Station spacing really needs to be taken from the plans, they aren't all 12" by default. Even some of the station positioning can vary from the rest, like station 1 and 2 may vary some because they are often setup with the stem form.
I believe that the center form is lined up center to center line (line for center form) and the rest are placed on the side of the line you heading from center. That is, on the forms towards the bow, they are on the bow side and towards the stern, the stern side.
Also, I used 3/4" material on the canoe I just finished and I don't think I will do that again. Next time I will downsize to 1/2", easier to cut out and final sand to exact shape required. As you pointed out, when the strips start to bend, only 1 corner of the form will contact the strips, 3/4" doesn't really buy you much on the forms and I found at some points, it was a bit of a nuisance.
Having said that, I actually attached some 1/2" ply to 3/4" material when I laid out the stems. Once they where final shaped and the clamp holes drilled, I separated the pieces (3 screws). I used the 1/2" ply on the strong back and the 3/4" to bend the stems. This worked out pretty well and allowed me to go ahead and do stems and final strong back setup at the same time. This I will do again.
What boat have you picked?
Brian
I believe that the center form is lined up center to center line (line for center form) and the rest are placed on the side of the line you heading from center. That is, on the forms towards the bow, they are on the bow side and towards the stern, the stern side.
Also, I used 3/4" material on the canoe I just finished and I don't think I will do that again. Next time I will downsize to 1/2", easier to cut out and final sand to exact shape required. As you pointed out, when the strips start to bend, only 1 corner of the form will contact the strips, 3/4" doesn't really buy you much on the forms and I found at some points, it was a bit of a nuisance.
Having said that, I actually attached some 1/2" ply to 3/4" material when I laid out the stems. Once they where final shaped and the clamp holes drilled, I separated the pieces (3 screws). I used the 1/2" ply on the strong back and the 3/4" to bend the stems. This worked out pretty well and allowed me to go ahead and do stems and final strong back setup at the same time. This I will do again.
What boat have you picked?
Brian
Re: Station Positioning
I picked the 15 ft Ranger. I like the lines and it will fit inside my van. I'm still debating on buying the kit. I live in the southwest and dont see a lot of cedar. Are there alternatives other than redwood.
- Patricks Dad
- Posts: 1476
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2004 1:11 pm
- Location: Warrenville, Illinois
Re: Station Positioning
Just to clarify / correct something here to avoid some confusion...
Curiser wrote:
But you seem to have already got this in mind...
Curiser wrote:
I believe that this advice is exactly backwards. The forms toward the bow should rest on side of the station line AWAY from the bow (such that the edge that contacts the strips is right on the station line).I believe that the center form is lined up center to center line (line for center form) and the rest are placed on the side of the line you heading from center. That is, on the forms towards the bow, they are on the bow side and towards the stern, the stern side.
But you seem to have already got this in mind...
Re: Station Positioning
Thank you. another problem is how does the stem fair into station 6. 5/8 or 3/4 of an inch below profile line. The table for the stem has been corrected but still leaves alot to imagination particularly past the 22" mark back to station 6
Re: Station Positioning
Thanks Randy, I was thinking correctly and writing badly
Re: Station Positioning
You could use any soft wood. I've even seen some walnut used.brooks wrote: I'm still debating on buying the kit. I live in the southwest and dont see a lot of cedar. Are there alternatives other than redwood.
Of course you might want to consider the weight of the woods used.
Re: Station Positioning
How about poplar. It seems to have all the characteristics accept weight.