Different styles of filling in the football

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brooks
Posts: 47
Joined: Sun Dec 15, 2013 2:11 pm

Different styles of filling in the football

Post by brooks »

My " RANGER " is coming along very nicely. Im getting ready to put on my 11th strip in the football and i remembered i saw one or two posts that had some pictures of different styles of filling it in. there were several designs that caught my eye, but I cant recall where they were. Does anyone know of its where abouts. Another thing is i bought 72 strips and i am worried i dont have enough. Its going to be close. I have alot of short ones and the waste is very minimal. I'm book matching the entire canoe and I have put aside the matching pieces to the football. Now i only have 2 full pairs left, and i still have to finish the sheer fill in at the ends. I do have alot of cut offs and i can only hope they will be enough. I want to thank the people in this forum. It has been an education one could not get anywhere else. Thank you
Stephen
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Joined: Fri Apr 18, 2014 12:36 am
Location: Eastern Ontario

Re: Different styles of filling in the football

Post by Stephen »

Bear Mountain sells a package of 64 strips which they say will do most canoes, plus a bundle of 8 strips for large girth canoes such as the Prospector or Nomad. This is the same number of strips that you have. If you bought Bear Mountain strips it seems you should be alright.

However, these strips are advertised with a width of 13/16" rather than the more common 3/4". If you are using 3/4" strips the overall width of the 72 strips will be 4 1/2" smaller than the Bear Mountain version. I'm afraid I don't know the girth of the Ranger to say whether this will be adequate.
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Patricks Dad
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Re: Different styles of filling in the football

Post by Patricks Dad »

As you strip the football, you will need shorter and shorter strips. At some point, each strip will fill two lengths, and then eventually 3. You should be able to keep your bookmatch pattern going if you keep track of which strips you cut and keep the left-overs organized.

As for styles for filling in the football, there are indeed several approaches (and some yet invented I'm sure). The 3 most common are probably:

1. Simply continue stripping one side at a time parallel to prior strips with each pair meeting in the middle with a single center seam. With this approach you complete one side, cut the centerline before starting the other side.
2. Herringbone where you apply one (or two) strips on each side and then but the strips from the other side to those first strip(s).
3. Start in the middle with a few strips that are straight down the keel line and then build out from there.
Randy Pfeifer
(847) 341-0618
Randy.Pfeifer1@gmail.com
brooks
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Joined: Sun Dec 15, 2013 2:11 pm

Re: Different styles of filling in the football

Post by brooks »

I'm doing no. 1 with a center seam. this actually is the easiest part of the build so far. the first half of the football that is. I'm not sure how much damage will be don to the other half when I start fitting the pieces in. the edges of the cove are pretty weak. I need to find out how to post pictures.
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Glen Smith
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Re: Different styles of filling in the football

Post by Glen Smith »

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Patricks Dad
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Re: Different styles of filling in the football

Post by Patricks Dad »

with approach #1, there is an easy technique to make sure you are cutting each strip (on the 2nd side) the right length.

Canoecraft has a description of this technique but it completely escaped me when I read (and even re-read the book). My son and I struggled some to strip the 2nd half until we "invented" this new technique (which upon further review was exactly what Ted was trying to describe in the book).

Trial and error works if the error is on the long side (you can always trim some off and try again). But if you cut the strip too short, you have to set it aside for a future (shorter strip) - but note the possible impacts on your book-matching scheme...

I'll try to describe the technique here (but read the book). Cut the proper angle on one end of the strip making note of the the angle in two dimensions (the strip must mate with the other side in both dimensions). Look at the match from both the top and the bottom of the canoe so you can assess the fit. I used a small circular saw wheel on a dremel for this first cut and clean up or fine tune with a block plane.

Once you are happy with one end, put the new strip in as much as you can getting it to fit snugly all the way along to the inside of the prior strip. Of course it will be too long to actually go in all the way. Some portion will hang out over the stem. About 2' from the end of the strip or near the point where the strip can no longer be put in place (opposite from the end you already cut to fit), make a pencil mark across the new strip and the previous strip. These marks will guide you in getting the right length for the remaining end of the strip. Make a similar mark near the other (already fit) end as well. This will be used to assess fit when you glue the strip in place.

If you can now cut the correct angle on the strip such that it mates with the strip on the opposite side (again in both dimensions) AND so that the marks line up when you dry fit, you will have a perfect length strip.

Always cut longer when in doubt. As you go, you will get very good at judging the correct length. So much so, you will be disappointed when you are done (you'll want to do more). As you cut the strip, install it partially to check the alignment of your pencil marks. The difference between them will be the additional amount you need to remove (if any).

Note that when you install the strip, the glue will lubricate things a bit and you may find that the first end actually goes in a bit farther than your benchmark. Once the strip is installed, you can slide it back and forth a bit if needed to align the benchmarks on both ends.

As always work to ensure your strips fit tightly together with no gaps to minimize any filling you may have to do.
Randy Pfeifer
(847) 341-0618
Randy.Pfeifer1@gmail.com
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Jim Dodd
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Re: Different styles of filling in the football

Post by Jim Dodd »

I learned the hard way, to not force the strip into place.
It caused a rise in the hull that took a little persuasion to get flat later.
Trim a little long, and be patient enough to fit with a small plane. Without too much pressure.
So far I've found the "Canoecraft" technic the best. I've done the herringbone, but it takes about twice as long.

Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!
brooks
Posts: 47
Joined: Sun Dec 15, 2013 2:11 pm

Re: Different styles of filling in the football

Post by brooks »

I'm going to use all these tips. The register mark at the ends is ingenious. I can also see why not to make it too tight. The compound miter is key to a perfect fit. This is an awesome forum.
Rod Tait

Re: Different styles of filling in the football

Post by Rod Tait »

I also have some info on my web blog about filling in the second half. It shows kayaks, but it's the same. I also have some YouTube videos on my YouTube channel found through my web site. The main thing in filling the second half is to leave a little "meat" on the first half. In other words, don't cut past the centerline on first go. You can chisel, plane, and sand closer to center as you go so that your strip ends meet up. This is crucial if you have different colours that you want to meet up at center. And then to fit the second half piece in, go slow, cut long, and make reference marks which you will see in the video.
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