Shaping inner stems...Michne stick question

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Grumple
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Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia

Shaping inner stems...Michne stick question

Post by Grumple »

Hello,

I've been studying how to shape the inner stems, and I love the idea of the Michne stick approach.

I also like the idea of shaping as I go with the real planks, as opposed to shaping everything with scrap strips first.

However, in the description of the process on Michneboat.com, the following line raises a question:

The shaped area should be high enough above the position of the strip so that the next strip will almost fit. If not, it will be impossible to get behind the bead when you sand for the next strip. Now do the other end of the boat, and fasten an actual strip in place.

If I'm laying planks 'cove up', such that the top side of the most recent plank is square, do I really need to shape ahead? I was thinking I'd just set the Michne stick right on the most recently attached plank to get the best shape for one being fitted, then attach it, and repeat?
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Kermit
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Re: Shaping inner stems...Michne stick question

Post by Kermit »

I used the sanding stick method, and found that you definitely want to be at least 1/2 a plank further along, thus preventing possible outward angling of the strips...(don't ask how I know). It also reduces damage to the installed strip, if you don't have to keep running your sanding stick along the previous plank.

Chris
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Patricks Dad
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Re: Shaping inner stems...Michne stick question

Post by Patricks Dad »

I agree with Chris. You will find that sanding ahead will be much easier. I generally sand 2 or 3 strips ahead (and fine tune 1 ahead). I build cove up and the edges of the coves are fragile (you won't want to just rest your M-stick in the cove.
Randy Pfeifer
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Grumple
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Re: Shaping inner stems...Michne stick question

Post by Grumple »

That makes sense...I think at this point I'm just going to have to get to that stage and see how it feels.

It's almost time time start so I'm getting both excited and nervous about the details.

I picked up a portable table saw last night, I have 3/4" plywood for the strongback sitting in the garage, Huron Cruiser plans sitting on my desk, and I'm having 18' WRC boards delivered this weekend. o_O

I bought 1/2" plywood for the molds, but in the few weeks it's been sitting on my garage floor one of the two sheets has already warped noticeably. I might find another use for it and switch to using particle board or mdf for my molds...

Thanks!
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Kermit
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Re: Shaping inner stems...Michne stick question

Post by Kermit »

My forms warped HORRIBLY, I wish I had gone with MDF instead of 1/2" ply.

I corrected the issue with crossbracing EVERY form, one reason I am still on this project after 2 years...

:crying

Chris
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Grumple
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Re: Shaping inner stems...Michne stick question

Post by Grumple »

I considered doing exactly the same thing with my warped plywood, just because it's a big pain in the behind for me to get new sheets of material. 4x8 doesn't fit into the corolla very well... =D

Ultimately I'm thinking I better just suck it up and avoid the warping issue. My only concern with mdf/particle board is whether high humidity might also cause it to act strange (go soft/swell?) but I found a thread about this from a while ago where people seem to be saying it'll be fine as long as the forms don't actually get wet...

2 years eh? I'm hoping to complete mine by late next summer, but not sure what to really expect. What did you find the most time consuming aspects to be?
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Kermit
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Re: Shaping inner stems...Michne stick question

Post by Kermit »

technically 3, I started tracing the forms and buying the wood after my youngest was born.... He's 3 and a half. I NEED to finish this this year.


Chris
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Grumple
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Re: Shaping inner stems...Michne stick question

Post by Grumple »

I just went through your progress thread, it looks great so far!

I've also got two young kids at home keeping me busy, one is almost 2, and the other is only 3 months. Free time is hard to come by.
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