Squaring rough lumber without a jointer?

[Grumple]

Hello,

Just looking for some general advice on the first stage of producing strips. I have little experience milling rough lumber so I'm going to be relying on the internets, and plenty of scrap wood tests. =P

I have some long WRC boards (ie 1" x 6" x 18-20'), which are rough, but in pretty good shape. A few are slightly bowed (ie ends warped upwards laying flat), and a few are slightly crooked (warped sideways laying flat).

My first question, is how perfect do they need to be for making strips? I have a thickness planer, and was going to plane them down to 3/4, and accept any remaining bow after the planing process. Is this ok? If not, how to further fix the bow?

I am more concerned about the crook messing up my strip thickness during ripping, so I really want to do my best to ensure I create at least one truly straight edge of the board that will run along the table saw fence when stripping. Does this make sense?

To fix the crook without a jointer, the two most promising techniques I've found both involve using two-sided tape to attach a straight edge (ie factory edge(s) of plywood) to the board. One technique involves running a router across the board with the attached straight edge as a guide. The other involves letting the straight edge overhang one side of board, then running it through the table saw with the straight edge against the fence, cutting the other side perfectly straight.

The table saw technique seems easiest to me, even though I'll need to create a very long straight edge, etc.

Any thoughts, suggestions, advice? I'd like to get this first (important) step right without wrecking a pile of expensive lumber...

[Jim Dodd]

Hi Grumple

You have a prime example for using a skill saw instead of a table saw.
If you look up my posts you will find what I use for a setup, to cut strips.

The skillsaw method will produce uncanny consistent strips! It will even work with rough cut, and warped boards, if they are not Too warped.

If you plan to bead and cove your strips, and I highly recommend you do! Planing your planks is unnecessary. That will be done with the router, when you bead and cove.
Remember to run your strips BETWEEN the bit and the router fence.

Jim

[Rod Tait]

I have cut boards on my table saw that are warped as you describe. Of course it will depend on the amount of warp, but if you place the convex edge of the board against the fence and have the blade set as low as possible, you might be able to keep the edge against the fence. Also in this case, you don't want a long fence as would be recommended for long boards.

Plane the boards down to the thickness wanted and then rip to over 1/4". Then run strips back through planer to get even 1/4 thickness (or slightly thicker - I usually go for around .27) With the even thickness strips, you then run your bead and cove.

But if they are way off, then I would try to get a bit straighter edge with one of the methods you describe.

[Grumple]

Thanks for the suggestions, guys.

I looked a bit at the circular saw method being described and it does look interesting. I had originally passed up on that technique because my table saw is higher quality (new Ridgid) than my circular saw (couple year old Mastercraft). Maybe it is worth reconsidering...

Regardless I think I will do as Rod suggests and purposely leave enough to plane the strips afterwards.

[Jim Dodd]

I've tried a table saw, and without long infeed, and outfeed tables, it's real difficult to get a consistent thickness of the strips.

Dragging the plank back and forth, and trying to keep the plant tight to the fence, has got to be a challenge.

A skillsaw with a fence and a strongback, that you need anyway, is all you need. Oh and a good dust mask(cartridge type).

Make sure if you use a skillsaw, that it is at least 13AMP.

Good luck either method you choose !

Jim

[KenC]

I have nothing to add to Jim's & Rod's posts ... but I'm curious ... what the heck is going on in your avatar pic?

[Grumple]

Haha I saw so many other people using beautiful pictures of their completed canoes as avatars, and so I decided I would also use mine.

I'm hoping to get my canoe done sometime in the next year, then I can update the avatar accordingly!

[Jim Dodd]

AMAZING avatar ! Must be the varnish !

[Grumple]

If anyone asks I'll just tell them I sanded it until I couldn't see any rough spots...

[Jim Dodd]

How much did it weigh ?
And did you have to license it ?
HA !