Fairing the Outside Stem
Fairing the Outside Stem
I just dry fit the outside stem as I mention in "another question".Lets go back to the inside stem and fairing it to an 1/8 of an inch on the leading edge. After stripping, it adds up to be just shy of 3/4 and adding the outside stem to fair to the hull line I have found something interesting. Using a homemade scribe to mark the leading edge of the outside stem its exactly 1/8 which is what the inside stem was to be faired to. In order to get the 3/8 mentioned the book do i fair the stem as a separate piece and fair the inside edge of the stem to the hull ? I can't glue on the outside stems until I solve this unknown.
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alick burt
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Re: Fairing the Outside Stem
Hi brooks
I think I understand what you are getting at.The outer stems on my Peterborough were just slightly wider in thickness at the back when I fitted them and the front of them was brought down to 3 eighths of an inch wide which allowed for fitting the brass keel band.You will find that in places the point where the planking meets the back of the outer stem can be made flush easily (by scraping and sanding) once it is fitted because the line of the planking can continue but as you get closer to the bottom of the hull this becomes more of an angle and so is a little trickier to finish.
So in answer to your question fair the stem as a separate piece keeping the front edge to 3/8 and the back edge to 3/4 but leave a small amount (1/32 each side max) to clean up once you have glued it.
N.B.My boats with outer stems also have a keel on the bottom.
Here are some pictures that may help you.Here I am shaping the stem before fitting.
and here I am using a belt sander to carefully fair it in once it is glued in place.
Next the splice was planed off.
and then the keel glued on top.(if you are having one!)
Hope this helps
Alick
I think I understand what you are getting at.The outer stems on my Peterborough were just slightly wider in thickness at the back when I fitted them and the front of them was brought down to 3 eighths of an inch wide which allowed for fitting the brass keel band.You will find that in places the point where the planking meets the back of the outer stem can be made flush easily (by scraping and sanding) once it is fitted because the line of the planking can continue but as you get closer to the bottom of the hull this becomes more of an angle and so is a little trickier to finish.
So in answer to your question fair the stem as a separate piece keeping the front edge to 3/8 and the back edge to 3/4 but leave a small amount (1/32 each side max) to clean up once you have glued it.
N.B.My boats with outer stems also have a keel on the bottom.
Here are some pictures that may help you.Here I am shaping the stem before fitting.
and here I am using a belt sander to carefully fair it in once it is glued in place.
Next the splice was planed off.
and then the keel glued on top.(if you are having one!)
Hope this helps
Alick
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Rod Tait
Re: Fairing the Outside Stem
If I understand correctly, are you shaping the outer stem before gluing on. I would just shape as much as needed to have the keel end of the outer stem fit into the dado in the hull and leave the rest to shape after it is glued into place. Shaping is then just really an extension of the hull planking and the outer edges planed off to give you the flat surface required for stem band if adding one. If not, then round over the ends to accommodate wrapped glass.
Note: I always make my outer stem wider than plans call for so that I have lots of material to remove during the shaping process.
Note: I always make my outer stem wider than plans call for so that I have lots of material to remove during the shaping process.
Re: Fairing the Outside Stem
Rod That is the plan I had until the 3/8 became 1/8 after I faired the hull into the stem. My prelimenary layout showed me that the 3/8 that is needed for the band was going to be 1/8. For me to get the 3/8 I would have to take off the outside layer of the stem. Alick makes sense with his explanation. I'm building the Ranger 15 so that might be the reason. Maybe every canoe has a different result. Someone who has built 2 different canoes would know if this is the case.