Clarification on sheathing the inside of the hull

[WMegl]

I don't understand the statement in Canoecraft that states "To begin with, spread the cloth over the inside of the hull. Center it and cut it so that it ends about 4 inches short of each stem." Later, it states "At the bow and stern, tuck the cloth down to each side of the stem and over the top." The pictures on pages 156 and 7 also show the cloth extending all the way to the inside edge of the bow and stern. If I'm cutting the cloth 4 inches short of the stems, how does it end up laying to the side of the stems?

Thanks.

[Patricks Dad]

The "laying beside the stem" part is referring to the portion of the stem that extends back into the canoe where your last station mould was. You will slit the cloth in the center far enough back to allow it to lay on either side of the stem (and up both sides of the stem).

The full length of the cloth will fall a bit short of the stem near the shear. I usually cut about 2" short. If you decide to cut if full length, you will find yourself struggling to get the cloth to lay flat against the hull in the ends where things are cramped and it's difficult to work. If you cut it a bit short, the cloth will lay against the hull nicely (not covering the stem at the far end of the canoe).

When you glass the hull, when you get to the end, peel the glass back and coat the wood with a heavy layer of epoxy and then press the cloth onto it. It will be easier to saturate the cloth that way.

[WMegl]

Randy: So, the very front (in your case, within 2 in. of the of end of the stem at the shear line) of the inside of the strips are not sandwiched between a layer of fiberglass cloth and epoxyy resin- they are only covered on the outside. Interesting!

As always, thanks for your help!

[Jim Dodd]

I'm not sure this will help, but I lay my cloth on a Bias on the outside of the canoe, trim the cloth a little long all around, and slit the cloth covering the stems back a little, the same as I do with the outside layer.
I build my boats stemless, and that way I can overlap the cloth in the stem area in the inside.

In your case, I would cut my cloth on the bias on the outside, and when I layed it in the inside, I'd trim to fit around the inside stem. You can always come back and glass the stems again later.

Hope this helps !

Jim

[Patricks Dad]

To clarify, the front edge is not fully covered with glass but it is covered with epoxy.

The glass is to add strength to the hull but the hull right next to the stem is already quite strong. It really doesn't need the added strength of glass. You can run the glass as close to the stem as you wish but you may find that working in that narrow space is difficult when you glass.

[Patricks Dad]

Jim, you mentioned that you lay your glass on the boat on the bias. How do you find glass wide enough to do that?

[Jim Dodd]

Hi Randy

I buy 60" width 6oz. You can't get as much bias on a wide boat obviously, but it is supposed to add strength.

I've always laid my cloth on a bias, it also aids in dealing with wrinkles.
I wish I had a pic to show, but when I start glassing, the camera seems to be brushed aside.

Jim

[WMegl]

All: According to the posts, the very front (bow and stern) of the inside of the hull is NOT covered with cloth and resin because you cut it short, correct? It will extend to within 2 or 4 inches, depending on where you cut it, of the sheer (the point on the top of the hull where the strips are glued to the stem). I want to make sure I understand this.

Thanks.

[Cruiser]

Not the best pic, but I think it will confirm your understanding.



You cut just a bit shy of the end, it is near impossible to work with FG and resin at the stems (my opinion), I think the book recommends cutting the FG along the stem, after you get some resin there, otherwise it just frays all over. Hope this helps and doesn't confuse.



Brian

[WMegl]

Brian: "A picture's worth.........".

Thanks much.

Wayne

[WMegl]

All: I am making a Redbird, and there is a lot of re-curve at the bow and stern. My concern is that if I cut the cloth 2-4 in. back at the shear line from the stem (at the top), there will be a big section of the inside of the hull that will not be glassed. In the picture below, the white stick represents the end of the cloth if I cut it 4 in. back from the sheer line/stem. The area beyond the white stick will not be glassed, correct?

Thanks for your help, as always.

[Patricks Dad]

I would cut the glass longer for the Redbird and match the curve of the bow/stern. But staying back a couple inches from the stem (from the point where the stem curves up from the bottom of the hull) is fine.

[WMegl]

Got it. I was having trouble understanding the directions relative to a Redbird. It makes sense now. Thanks to all.