I'm ready to sheathe the inside of the hull and have a question on the process.
Canoecraft states that the same procedure for the outside sheathing should be followed, except I will be applying 2 coats of resin, not 3. On the outside, I applied each succeeding coat after the first within 3-4 hours so that the coats would chemically bond, thereby not requiring sanding.
For the inside (applying 2 coats), Canoecraft states "When the resin has set firmly, use a sharp chisel to trim away any cloth sticking up around the stems and sand the edges smooth. Lightly hand-sand the hull with 120-grit sandpaper to cut the tooth, then vacuum and clean the surface with a cloth dampened with lacquer thinner".
This instruction does not follow the 3-coat instructions which said to apply the succeeding coats 3-4 hours between applying the second coat so that it chemically bonds to the first and therefore avoiding sanding.
If this is correct, at what point do I lightly hand sand- is 3-4 hours sufficient?
Thanks.
Clarification: Sheathing the Inside of the Hull
Clarification: Sheathing the Inside of the Hull
First Timer
Re: Clarification: Sheathing the Inside of the Hull
I do it different, and has worked great for years.
I apply the first wet out coat. Let it set until it has cured to the non tacky stage. trim excess cloth with a razor blade.
At this point there is enough texture that will hold your resin from running down the sides, then apply second coat.
NEW TRICK ! I just learned by doing, roll on resin with those cigar shaped skinny white foam rollers. No troubles with milky resin, and they seem to move the resin around better than regular foam rollers. In my opinion way better than a squeegee.
Canoecrafts technic may be for earlier resins, before the Non-blushing types produced today.
I don't sand between coats of resin, unless I have to waited over 48 hours.
I prefer to apply fill coats while the previous coat is still tacky.
Good luck !
Jim
I apply the first wet out coat. Let it set until it has cured to the non tacky stage. trim excess cloth with a razor blade.
At this point there is enough texture that will hold your resin from running down the sides, then apply second coat.
NEW TRICK ! I just learned by doing, roll on resin with those cigar shaped skinny white foam rollers. No troubles with milky resin, and they seem to move the resin around better than regular foam rollers. In my opinion way better than a squeegee.
Canoecrafts technic may be for earlier resins, before the Non-blushing types produced today.
I don't sand between coats of resin, unless I have to waited over 48 hours.
I prefer to apply fill coats while the previous coat is still tacky.
Good luck !
Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!
Re: Clarification: Sheathing the Inside of the Hull
Concur with Jim .... trim FG at stem area after first coat has firmed up (as you say 3-4 hours), sand/smooth the trimmed part, clean up the small mess ( i use a vacuum) and continue with second coat.
I prefer the rollers for epoxy application ... period.
I prefer the rollers for epoxy application ... period.