Carpenter's glue/Titbond question

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Morecowbell
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Joined: Sat Jun 28, 2014 10:41 am

Carpenter's glue/Titbond question

Post by Morecowbell » Mon Sep 07, 2015 9:33 pm

On a thread on WB re stip building, someone recommended Weldwood plastic resin glue because it dried harder and was easier to sand, less prone to gumming up than carpenter's glue. Anyone used it or like anything better than the standard?

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Grumple
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Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia

Re: Carpenter's glue/Titbond question

Post by Grumple » Tue Sep 08, 2015 8:46 am

Hi,

I'm currently scraping/sanding the inside of my canoe in preparation for fiberglass. I can't comment on the plastic resin glue specifically, but what I will say is you will thank yourself if you are very diligent about wiping any/all squeeze out as you work through the glue-up.

I was really good about it on the outside of the hull, and on the first half of the inside, but as I started to strip the bottom of the hull and it got awkward to reach up inside, I started paying less attention to the squeeze/drips.

The areas of my hull that were nicely cleanup up barely needed to be sanded at all, so I never had to worry about issues with glue gumming up.

However, I've put hours into scraping/sanding the 'messy' areas, and still have hours yet to go to get it all cleaned off. Worst of all, some of it is in areas the orbital sander can't go. :crying

Morecowbell
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Joined: Sat Jun 28, 2014 10:41 am

Re: Carpenter's glue/Titbond question

Post by Morecowbell » Tue Sep 08, 2015 9:20 am

I've used (and cleaned up) a lot of carpenter's glue in other contexts, and this has been my experience as well - that's why I asked! :laughing I can see an advantage in using a glue that dries harder and is easier to scrape and sand - so just curious. Thanks!

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Jim Dodd
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Re: Carpenter's glue/Titbond question

Post by Jim Dodd » Tue Sep 08, 2015 9:21 am

Years ago I played with the Weldwood plastic cement.

It came in a powder form, and then mixed with water. I don't remember the pot life, but in my use it was too short. And a mess to work with.

Any additional strength isn't really needed in my opinion.

The biggest reason to gumming up sandpaper is just plain Excess glue usage. I can build a solo stripper with just slightly more than a 8 oz bottle. Maybe 10 or 12 oz total.

I find a very fine glue tip to be a great help !

Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!

alick burt
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Re: Carpenter's glue/Titbond question

Post by alick burt » Tue Sep 08, 2015 3:14 pm

Hi Folks
I think a lot of confusion arises on the subject of cleaning off glue because some glues are easier to clean off when wet and others are easier to clean off when set.
Titebond original cleans off easily when wet by wiping excess off andalso is fairly hard and powdery when set so cleans off easily when dry.(it's an alphatic resin).I use this for most of my boats.

P.V.A which is a great wood glue for many reasons is not so good for strip building.I use it for furniture as it is cheaper than titebond.
If you try to wipe off the wet glue it can be driven into the grain surrounding the joint.
If you try to clean it off by sanding when set it is softer than the titebond so will gum up your sandpaper.

For speed of setting and waterproof jointing I love P.U. glue.
Cleaning this off when wet is a no no! It will foam up and get all over you and whatever you use to wipe it off.
Cleaning it off when set is easy as the foamed up glue is easy to remove but It does stick to anything and it isn't very attractive if it has foamed up in a joint that has a gap in it so make sure your jointing and clamping is good.
Cheers :wink
Alick

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