Inwale Install??!

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JesseP
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Location: East Central, AB

Inwale Install??!

Post by JesseP » Sat Nov 21, 2015 4:05 pm

Hey Everyone,
I have hit a major road block in this canoe build and am really going crazy over it. The time has come for me to install the inwales and have had many failed attempts. I have scarf jointed two 8 foot oak boards together and milled them to 3/4 inch thickness through the thickness planer. I then cut 4 strips at 7/8 inch resulting inwales milled to 3/4 by 7/8. I proceeded with this and routed my scuppers removing 1/4 inch thickness keeping in mind seat location. Up to this point all seems to go as planned.. then the dreaded part. I now have 16 foot long inwales and a 15 foot canoe with substantial upsweep.( Hiawatha). I marked the location on my first steam bend as per canoe craft with much difficulty. Canoe craft wants you to position one end of the inwale (the bend one) over the remaining stem piece and clamp the inwale along the hull to get measurement of where you should trim your inwale to size. While doing this it seems there is a lot of stress on the inwale where it curves to form with the hull..sure enough... SNAP!. This has happened to me twice now and I'm frustrated haha. Is there any advice on attaching these to make this process a little less finicky and scary? I have already milled 2 more inwales at 3/4 by 7/8 but have yet to rout scuppers or steam bend. Thanks in advance for any advice you guys can offer.

JesseP
I'm up to my torch.

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Jim Dodd
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Re: Inwale Install??!

Post by Jim Dodd » Sat Nov 21, 2015 6:03 pm

I tried routing scuppers once. It too was a disaster. They splintered apart.

Now I cut my inwhales, 3/8"x 3/4", and then glue 1/4" x 3/4" spacers, leaving gaps at the right places to accommodate seats, thwarts and decks.
I come back later, with a round hand rasp and work the spacers, once I've glued my inwhales in.

I also use Ash for my trim.

You might have better luck laminating thin strips, instead of trying to make your inwhale out of one thick piece.

Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!

brooks
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Re: Inwale Install??!

Post by brooks » Sat Nov 21, 2015 7:53 pm

Hi Jesse, The Hiawatha has beautiful lines much like the old birch bark canoes. I had a problem bending my mohogany inwales and outwales and i built the "Ranger". You'll hear on this forum that the ranger has a slight up sweep on its sheer and the inwale would follow the sheer easily but I'm here to tell you it wouldn't. So I decided to build a bending form of the last 4 stations. I could bend both ends exactly the same. That was done easily by laying out the stations from the base line to the sheer. Its basically the opposite to the canoe stations. The space you see between the sheer line and the strong back. I then soaked them over night and bent them over the form the next morning. I then hung a space heater over them for a week. I did turn it off every night. If your steaming I would leave it in the steamer for twice as long and also taper the inwales to a closer finish of what your looking for. Its well worth the effort. I hope that isn't too confusing. pwb

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Patricks Dad
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Re: Inwale Install??!

Post by Patricks Dad » Sat Nov 21, 2015 9:12 pm

Canoe craft wants you to position one end of the inwale (the bend one) over the remaining stem piece and clamp the inwale along the hull to get measurement of where you should trim your inwale to size.
I don't think I understand what your process is here. If the up-sweep is significant, you should bend each end of your inwales over a form that matches the curve of the hull. I bent one end of each inwale pair at a time. Once it had dried, I soaked and steamed the other end. before steaming either end, it helps to cut the length of the inwales to the right length (maybe a 1/4" long just in case).

To measure the correct length, I apply a length of strapping tape (which won't stretch) along the inside of the hull, cut it to length and then pull it off the hull and apply it to either the inwale itself or some other long straight surface. This provide a (near) exact length measurement for the inwales. Once the inwales are cut to length, you can measure your bends from the ends. Be sure to soak the inwales sufficiently and steam with sufficient heat (1 hour/inch of thickness). I've never used Oak for inwales (or any component of a canoe) due to it's weight but it should bend nicely. I have primarily used cherry. No need to cut scuppers into the region of the inwales where the steam bending occurs.
Randy Pfeifer
(847) 341-0618
Randy.Pfeifer1@gmail.com

alick burt
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Re: Inwale Install??!

Post by alick burt » Sun Nov 22, 2015 3:58 pm

Hi Jesse
I always use Ash for my gunwales and haven't had any problems and bend them without steaming or soaking.
If you are using Oak I would be sure to make sure it is well soaked or steamed for about an hour (I agree with Randy there!)
I also taper my inwales which I believe makes the bending easier and I use lots of clamps to hold them till the glue is set and I clamp them upwards using an off cut across the end of the hull as Ted recommends.
I cut my scuppers by drilling and cutting out slots in the parts before I rip them to make a pair.

Image

Image
Hope it helps.
Cheers
Alick

brooks
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Re: Inwale Install??!

Post by brooks » Sun Nov 22, 2015 5:33 pm

Randy, you explained it alot better than me. the form should be the same as the canoe. I always make things complicated.

JesseP
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Location: East Central, AB

Re: Inwale Install??!

Post by JesseP » Tue Nov 24, 2015 6:34 pm

Thanks all,

I really do appreciate the responses. I hopefully now have what I need to go forward with this project. I was originally using walnut for my trim but was having a hell of a time getting it to bend without snapping. The oak should bend better but will be heaiver than some other woods.

Thanks again everyone. You guys are awesome.

JessseP
I'm up to my torch.

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Auvo R
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Re: Inwale Install??!

Post by Auvo R » Thu Jun 23, 2016 11:46 am

I quess this is too late for you but maybe someone else has same problems.
Ansver is this: Steam and bend.

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