Prospector 16 build question

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Pathfinder4
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Joined: Mon Jul 25, 2016 11:01 pm

Prospector 16 build question

Post by Pathfinder4 » Tue Jul 26, 2016 1:21 pm

First time canoe builder, started my prospector 16 build and have 5 strips already on. I’m not sure if I have run into a problem or how to fix it. I build and set up the strong back/molds going by the Canoecraft book but due to the limited space in my garage I have to move my setup. Here is the problem, my station molds are not level with one another and no matter how I shim the strong back nothing on the canoe is level side to side. Should I remove the installed strips and molds and start over? The strips and mold are approx. ¼”off from level, at stations 6,5,4,1,0,1,2,6. Some molds are not plumb and out approx. 1/8 “ left and right. Not sure how I messed this up when installing the molds I double and triple checked everything.

Thanks in advance

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Cruiser
Posts: 625
Joined: Sat Apr 27, 2013 10:21 am
Location: Bowmanville, Ontario

Re: Prospector 16 build question

Post by Cruiser » Tue Jul 26, 2016 8:41 pm

Before you do anything, take a pic (or a few) of your setup and post it .... sometimes words convey what the person thinks, but a pic will give us a better idea of what you have going on.

Focus them on the ares that you think is an issue.


Brian

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Jim Dodd
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Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2006 11:08 pm
Location: Iowa

Re: Prospector 16 build question

Post by Jim Dodd » Tue Jul 26, 2016 10:00 pm

I get really anal about setting my forms (molds) and strongback. I string very thin fish line on top of my forms. I want my center lines on the fishline, and my stem forms plumb !
But will a 1/4" make a noticeable difference when paddling ? I highly doubt it ! Will anyone else know it ? Probably not.

That's a question that you must answer for yourself Grass Hopper ! Sorry for the Kung Foo wisdom.

Anytime something is off, it CAN come back and haunt you.

How many extra strips and how much extra time do you have ?

If going back and resetting molds makes you feel better, I'd do it !

Good luck ! And Welcome aboard !

Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!

Pathfinder4
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Jul 25, 2016 11:01 pm

Re: Prospector 16 build question

Post by Pathfinder4 » Wed Jul 27, 2016 8:51 pm

I will try and post pics in a couple of days. I think I will start over and have a second set of eyes when leveling everything. Thanks for the help

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Jim Dodd
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Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2006 11:08 pm
Location: Iowa

Re: Prospector 16 build question

Post by Jim Dodd » Wed Jul 27, 2016 11:59 pm

Trust your eyes when you lay on the shear strips.
Go to the ends, and sight down the shear, if any bumps are apparent, correct them. Then make sure both sides are the same. A good level will help here.

Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!

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Cruiser
Posts: 625
Joined: Sat Apr 27, 2013 10:21 am
Location: Bowmanville, Ontario

Re: Prospector 16 build question

Post by Cruiser » Thu Jul 28, 2016 8:12 am

You mentioned you are moving the strongback, which is not great until you have a good start on stripping.

I would also check that the strong back itself is still flat and level ... all of your measurements make that assumption, so I would also check that as well (especially if it has been moved).

Jim makes complete sense with using your eyes to visualize the sight lines, you need to get back a bit and you can check the rocker and then the mold alignment, your eyes are quite good at picking out misalignment.

Brian

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Jim Dodd
Posts: 1178
Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2006 11:08 pm
Location: Iowa

Re: Prospector 16 build question

Post by Jim Dodd » Thu Jul 28, 2016 9:01 am

Molds are not plumb ?
I take a scrap piece of wood 3/8" thick or so, the length from bow to stern, on top of the molds, that runs along the keel. Any mold that doesn't want to stay plumb, gets tacked to this strip.
Image
In this pick you can see the strip with nail heads sticking up. This keeps my 12" spacing, as well as everything plumb with each other.

Also note the vertical strips that are temporarily stapled to the stem forms, on each end. I sight these from end to end to check plumb alignment. This is something that I believe is left out of the book.

One more note. I've taped all my forms with blue tape, except the middle form, which is taped with green tape. This helps orient me, as I'm working. I start stapling from the center, to the ends.

Hope this helps !

Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!

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