I recently finished the epoxy step of laminating the stems and a paragraph in the current version of canoecraft on page 114, right before 'shaping the stem' section, has me stuck. It says to use a block plane to round off the end of the inside stem at the keel line, where it will be visible inside the boat.
None of the pictures in following sections where the inside stem is back on the mold seems to show this, so I am not exactly sure how much I should try to round these corners now or wait. I also assume this means both the long edge of the stem and the corners and edge at the bitter end. I would appreciate any guidance on this.
Also, I am planning to attempt planking without staples even though this is my first time. The section on this in the book is very brief, is there any more detailed guidance or at least some recommended dimensions for the jigs shown? Unfortunately in the pictures the upper part of the jigs are mounted behind the molds, some clarification would give me a little more confidence in starting this.
Thanks to whoever can help,
Corey in Seattle
Stem work guidance
Re: Stem work guidance
I went looking through my pics and i don't have one that shows that part, so i will have to try and explain.
You have the right of it:
- the stems are actually sitting upside down
- the portion of stem contacting the stem mold will actually be the top of the inner stem, once the mold is removed and the boat turned over... to be clear, this is the part the strips don't contact
- you round over the end and along the horizontal section of the part that will form the top when the boat is turned over
It is easier to do this step before you start stripping, because later on when the strips are in place it is very difficult to work in this area.
If this isn't clear, I will snap a pic and post it ... or possibly one of the other builders will have one handy.
Brian
You have the right of it:
- the stems are actually sitting upside down
- the portion of stem contacting the stem mold will actually be the top of the inner stem, once the mold is removed and the boat turned over... to be clear, this is the part the strips don't contact
- you round over the end and along the horizontal section of the part that will form the top when the boat is turned over
It is easier to do this step before you start stripping, because later on when the strips are in place it is very difficult to work in this area.
If this isn't clear, I will snap a pic and post it ... or possibly one of the other builders will have one handy.
Brian
Re: Stem work guidance
As far as building staple-less, there is a ton of posts and information here.
I have built all my boats without staples, this is a link to my Kipawa build and you may get some ideas of how to proceed from that:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=637&start=75
Down the page you will see the Kipawa summary by Cruiser, there are quite a few pics and explanation of what i do. There are a lot of ways to build staple-less, this is just what works for me. You will need to figure out what clicks in your head and what fits your shop and supplies.
Hopefully, some of the posts will help.
Brian
I have built all my boats without staples, this is a link to my Kipawa build and you may get some ideas of how to proceed from that:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=637&start=75
Down the page you will see the Kipawa summary by Cruiser, there are quite a few pics and explanation of what i do. There are a lot of ways to build staple-less, this is just what works for me. You will need to figure out what clicks in your head and what fits your shop and supplies.
Hopefully, some of the posts will help.
Brian
Re: Stem work guidance
Hi Corey
Not sure if you lofted the plans or purchased them, The Bear Mountain plans for my Ranger 15 stem show the rounded edge directly on the plan itself.
Good luck
Eric
Not sure if you lofted the plans or purchased them, The Bear Mountain plans for my Ranger 15 stem show the rounded edge directly on the plan itself.
Good luck
Eric