I know, I know
I read everything here about colouring the filler epoxy darker than the wood, but I guess I didn’t quite get it right. The problem is noticeable near the stems. My question is will the epoxy and cloth hide my error, or is there something else I can/should do to make it look somewhat better than I think it will?
Epoxy filler too light
Re: Epoxy filler too light
My question is, where is it, you used the filler ?
Gaps between the strips ? Staple holes ? a Knot ?
Unless this is a real "Show Boat", the kind you just look at and not paddle, I wouldn't worry about it ! No boat is perfect !
Yes I I prefer Walnut filler, over anything lighter ! I've even dug out my RO sander and ground on a chunk of Walnut, just for the dark of it !
If it really bothers you, use a scraper, and hollow out what you want to fill ! Then apply a darker filler, and sand again .
Remember you get the strength from glass and epoxy, not filler. I rarely use epoxy mixed filler.
Hope that helps !
Jim
Gaps between the strips ? Staple holes ? a Knot ?
Unless this is a real "Show Boat", the kind you just look at and not paddle, I wouldn't worry about it ! No boat is perfect !
Yes I I prefer Walnut filler, over anything lighter ! I've even dug out my RO sander and ground on a chunk of Walnut, just for the dark of it !
If it really bothers you, use a scraper, and hollow out what you want to fill ! Then apply a darker filler, and sand again .
Remember you get the strength from glass and epoxy, not filler. I rarely use epoxy mixed filler.
Hope that helps !
Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!
Re: Epoxy filler too light
As far as your question goes, the whole idea of the glass/epoxy is to be clear ... other than darkening the surrounding wood (as will any wet finish) it shouldn't hide anything. You will find that the "fix" will stand out against dry wood, but that eases quite a bit depending on the colour change once the surrounding wood gets wetted out with epoxy.
When you post a question like this, the more info we get the better the answer we can give you.
I make a point of saving the dust from my ROS when I am doing projects, I have about 8 bottles of various wood dust to use as filler fodder. As you stated, get a bit darker than the dry wood, but more important is to use a similar colour of wood dust ... if you are a bit dark with the right colour balance it doesn't really show up unless you get close and judge ... same if you get a bit light. Another point is if you use just wood dust, you keep getting darker and darker until the consistency is correct ... so no real control of the colour, I get it to the right colour and add cabosil (fumed silica) to finish the thickening ... gives a little more control of the final product.
Jims point about scraping is exactly correct, don't try and sand applied epoxy, the difference in hardness between the surrounding wood and epoxy will just sand the surrounding wood off, leaving a crater around the epoxy.
Also, unless this is a large area of epoxy, you are likely to be about the only person to notice, once everything is complete. Epoxy by its nature is pretty hard to remove (it's why we use it), so unless this is really huge issue ... it is likely better to continue on with the finishing and not try any cosmetic fixes, invariably they will result is a larger area to be fixed and that is just making the issue worse.
Brian
When you post a question like this, the more info we get the better the answer we can give you.
I make a point of saving the dust from my ROS when I am doing projects, I have about 8 bottles of various wood dust to use as filler fodder. As you stated, get a bit darker than the dry wood, but more important is to use a similar colour of wood dust ... if you are a bit dark with the right colour balance it doesn't really show up unless you get close and judge ... same if you get a bit light. Another point is if you use just wood dust, you keep getting darker and darker until the consistency is correct ... so no real control of the colour, I get it to the right colour and add cabosil (fumed silica) to finish the thickening ... gives a little more control of the final product.
Jims point about scraping is exactly correct, don't try and sand applied epoxy, the difference in hardness between the surrounding wood and epoxy will just sand the surrounding wood off, leaving a crater around the epoxy.
Also, unless this is a large area of epoxy, you are likely to be about the only person to notice, once everything is complete. Epoxy by its nature is pretty hard to remove (it's why we use it), so unless this is really huge issue ... it is likely better to continue on with the finishing and not try any cosmetic fixes, invariably they will result is a larger area to be fixed and that is just making the issue worse.
Brian
Re: Epoxy filler too light
Thanks guys!
I noticed the problem yesterday when I wetted out the hull after my first sanding. I had mixed some West System epoxy with the microlight fairing filler and some sawdust to fill in some cracks near the stem. This morning I went down and did a bit of scraping and was able to take it back to where it made me happy. I think I am a bit too critical of my work to be honest, everything is actually looking really good IMO.
If you’re interested and are on Instagram I’m chronicling everything at @canoebuild2017
Eric
I noticed the problem yesterday when I wetted out the hull after my first sanding. I had mixed some West System epoxy with the microlight fairing filler and some sawdust to fill in some cracks near the stem. This morning I went down and did a bit of scraping and was able to take it back to where it made me happy. I think I am a bit too critical of my work to be honest, everything is actually looking really good IMO.
If you’re interested and are on Instagram I’m chronicling everything at @canoebuild2017
Eric
Re: Epoxy filler too light
Maybe post a few pics here, lots of ppl would love to see it