Transporting Strippers on Vehicles

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pwstndrf
Posts: 68
Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2004 10:24 pm
Location: Saginaw, Michigan

Transporting Strippers on Vehicles

Post by pwstndrf »

I've been worrying lately how to transport my stripper when I finish it. I have less than 10 pcs to finish to the bottom, then begin the fairing, glassing, etc. Getting excited! :smile

Anyhow, what kind of carrier surface can you subject the canoe to. Are those foam blocks you see in sporting goods shops OK against the varnished surfaces? Carpet? I plan to fabricate a metal carrier for my pick-up truck and carry the canoe upside down on the "rack" but am curious what others use for the contact surface. I'd expect some of the trips might be several hours at highway speeds.
Should I just not worry and plan on varnishing it every year? Anyone out there have any experience they care to share?
It would be apreciated.

phil w.
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Glen Smith
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Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada

Post by Glen Smith »

I normally use foam pipe insulation around the rack bars to protect the boat. Of course the boat should be fastened in a way that prevents any movement or the friction will wear through the varnish. On some racks I use minicell foam.
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RonMc1954
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Location: Nebraska
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Post by RonMc1954 »

Hi Phil, I found those foam noodles you find at walmart in the swiming section work great!

Ron Mc
pwstndrf
Posts: 68
Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2004 10:24 pm
Location: Saginaw, Michigan

Transporting Strippers

Post by pwstndrf »

My real concern is the vibration and it's affect on wearing off the varnish over time. I suppose if you tighten the straps or cords securing the canoe to the foam it should be sufficient to minimize the wear.

Thanks for your input, it sure is nice to have this forum to "lean on" for help.

:applause

phil w.
clicksys
Posts: 14
Joined: Thu Oct 20, 2005 8:39 am
Location: Burlington VT

Roof rack spread

Post by clicksys »

I'm building a 15'6" Cottage Cruiser this winter, and wonder if it will be workable to carry it on a Honda CR-V, which only offers a 33" distance from the front crosspiece of the roof rack to the rear crosspiece. Yakima says their minimum recommended spread for boats is 32", so theoretically this will work, assuming I tie it down bow and stern. Opinions? Up til now, I've only carried my 15'9" CLC kayak, on my old car with a 39" bar spread. This will be my first canoe.
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Fish
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Joined: Tue Jul 18, 2006 1:24 am
Location: Oregon

Post by Fish »

IF the canoe/kayak sticks to the pipe isulation on your racks and tears it, you can cover the pipe insulation with those rarely used nylon dress socks and "dress" up the racks as well as protect your boat.

Works for my surfboards, I'm sure it would be OK for gunwales.
All that we see or seem is but a dream within a dream. Poe
pwstndrf
Posts: 68
Joined: Sun Oct 31, 2004 10:24 pm
Location: Saginaw, Michigan

Rack

Post by pwstndrf »

Fish,

Thanks for the input. I think the socks are a good idea. Less expensive than what I did.
:smile
I ran into that sticking problem using Swimming Pool Noodles from Wal-Mart (availaible in lots of wild colors). To make that problem go away I made covers from some leftover Convertable Top Material (not cheap but it was on-hand) and sewed Velcro to the two edges to hold it in place wrapped around the foam noodles.
It still didn't like me sliding the canoe over the pads. I ended up using Tie-Wraps to secure the foam material to the tubing and then also on the outside of ends of the sleeves and now it works fine.
I made it 10 hrs to and from Peterborough to the Rendevous at Bear Mountain Boats with out incident.

Thanks for your input,

phil w.
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