In Gilpatrick's book

Post questions & answers about; paddle selection, building and maintenance; paddling techniques; boat transportation, storage & maintenance.
AlanWS
Posts: 209
Joined: Thu Mar 17, 2005 4:30 pm
Location: Shorewood, WI

Post by AlanWS »

Since nobody has addressed it, I want to point out another reason for the stronger wood on the outside, at least for the shaft. When you bend the shaft, the wood on the outside of the curve is under tension (stretching), while that on the inside of the curve is under compression. The wood in the middle is under neither, and does not contribute much to the strength of the paddle, except in holding the outside parts together at the right spacing. Putting softwood in the center makes the paddle lighter, and almost as strong as all hardwood. If you put softwood on the outside, you get a paddle that's heavier than if it were all softwood, with not much difference in strength. If the hardwood does contribute much to the strength, the softwood won't.

This is the same beam principle that goes into the hull of the canoe: two layers of glass, separated by wood that contributes little to the strength, but plenty to the looks. The thickness of the wood determines the stiffness of the hull.

That does not mean a paddle with softwood on the outside won't be plenty strong, it just means that in an engineering sense, the materials are not used to their best advantage. If it is strong enough and light enough and looks good, then it's fine.
Alan
User avatar
Its Me
Posts: 143
Joined: Fri Jul 09, 2004 12:21 pm

Post by Its Me »

Well its now four months since I posted the original question and I am finally getting around to making my paddles. I wanted to finish the canoe first.

I am using the Gilpatrick design and will use Cypress on the outside, and Ash for the core. The blades are left over cypress strips.
artistwood
Posts: 20
Joined: Wed May 25, 2005 6:08 am
Location: bloomington, indiana

bullit proof paddle tips....

Post by artistwood »

epoxy, saw dust, silica and chopped fiberglass mixed to a peanut butter like goo. used a dremel saw bit in the d tool and carved a 1'8 x 1/4" slit across the tip of the blade. 1/8 wide, 1/4 deep. used aluminum foil for a mould. coated the slit with plain mixed epoxy till it stayed shiney. then applied goo with a zip loc bag with corner cut off. let the mess cure for 2 days then sanded it to match the shape of the blade. the tip is still almost like new even though we repeatadly slammed it into concrete, gravel and a mess of other junk. the tip is still protecting the blade and adds very little weight.
the testing was done at home just in case. it passed!!!!
best guess on mix is
1 shot west epoxy (5:1)
2 tablespoons chopped fiberglass
1 teaspoon sawdust (or other coloring agent. toner works well)
enough silica to make it thick.....maybe like peanut butter???? so it will flow through bag
friends and i are all using this systen and have had NO FAILURES! :applause
BEST OF LUCK AND HAPPY PADDLING
..............BEAR
the voyages are the memories waiting to happen, the destination is the place we collect them...barry "bear" taylor
kwoodman
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Feb 14, 2006 5:52 pm
Location: Barrie Ontario Canada

paddle

Post by kwoodman »

Extremely light. Body of Basswood and cedar. Walnut tips.

http://usera.imagecave.com/kwoodman/kayak/Paddle.jpg
Take time for the things that count.
Post Reply