Freedom Solo 15' 3" or 16' 2"

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Cruiser
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Re: Freedom Solo 15' 3" or 16' 2"

Post by Cruiser » Fri Jun 28, 2013 1:48 pm

I just finished gluing up the stem strips, while they setup I plan on doing final strongback alignment and mold setup for the rest of the day. My strips are sorted, bundled and the first 21 are numbered for installation .... so I can setup the stems, on the molds tomorrow after the epoxy has setup.

OMG, I may actually be laying strips this weekend, it almost seems like reaching the summit and heading downhill. I am really ready to have something resembling a canoe underway.

The forum has been such a help, I just want to add another thanks for the input I have received and been able to glean by researching past threads.

This is almost better than Christmas as a kid.

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Re: Freedom Solo 15' 3" or 16' 2"

Post by Cruiser » Fri Jul 12, 2013 4:07 pm

Hi Randy,

I am still a bit confused on fitting the stems, and I figure how I cut the strips at this point is going to impact that process. Did you have any pics before (or as) you were fitting the stems.

It appears that after the turn to the keel, the strip slot is formed into "V" to the inner stem, the keel is shaped to fit, then most of the keel portion is turned into shavings and sawdust to fair it to the hull. The front looks straightforward, but after that turn has me scratching my head. I have gone over Canoecraft a few times, and I am just not feeling warm and fuzzy about my understanding yet.

I am thinking that the outer stem is shaped in a V with a 3/8" flat strip at the bottom, mating with the marked 3/8" flat strip on the top of the inner stem ... but that part just isn't clear yet.

Any input you have would be appreciated.

Brian

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Patricks Dad
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Re: Freedom Solo 15' 3" or 16' 2"

Post by Patricks Dad » Fri Jul 12, 2013 4:45 pm

The sides of the outer stem should be parallel to each other and to a plane that passes through the keel line. The width of the outer stem should taper from 3/4" down to 3/8" (at the furthest inboard end of the stem). The mortise you cut will match the shape of the stem. Cut your stem and then use it as a pattern to mark the placement and shape of the stem.

feel free to give me a call if you want to discuss. There are a few pictures on this site somewhere created by Glen some time ago.
Randy Pfeifer
(847) 341-0618
Randy.Pfeifer1@gmail.com

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Patricks Dad
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Re: Freedom Solo 15' 3" or 16' 2"

Post by Patricks Dad » Fri Jul 12, 2013 4:56 pm

there are a few pictures at this post that might be helpful:
http://bearmountainboats.com/phpBB3/vie ... ise#p24392
Randy Pfeifer
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Randy.Pfeifer1@gmail.com

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Re: Freedom Solo 15' 3" or 16' 2"

Post by Cruiser » Fri Jul 12, 2013 8:41 pm

Thanks Randy,

Definitely glad I asked, I really didn't have it ... now I do.

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Patricks Dad
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Re: Freedom Solo 15' 3" or 16' 2"

Post by Patricks Dad » Fri Jul 12, 2013 8:49 pm

just so I'm not confusing you, the picture at the link above shows the width of the mortise fairly consistent at 3/4" wide. The actual mortise should get narrower as it goes back. The picture may actually look that way due to the perspective. I just want to be clear that the general guidance is that the mortise should not be a consistent width but taper down to 3/8". If you don't do that, it won't be the end of the world however. I made this mistake myself on the first canoe I built... (but don't tell anyone).
Randy Pfeifer
(847) 341-0618
Randy.Pfeifer1@gmail.com

BearLeeAlive
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Re: Freedom Solo 15' 3" or 16' 2"

Post by BearLeeAlive » Sat Jul 13, 2013 8:47 am

Randy, keeping it at 3/4" all the way was the method recommended, so I this is why I did it. What would be the reason to not do this, as it is easy to do? Maybe for aesthetic purposes? Strength wise it would make no difference. I did taper the stem from about 1 1/2" at the shear down 3/4" to the midpoint of the curve along the keel, but that was because that was how the stern and bow forms were designed. It does make the stems look rather bold, but seeing they are there, I thought the style looked great.
-JIM-

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Patricks Dad
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Re: Freedom Solo 15' 3" or 16' 2"

Post by Patricks Dad » Sat Jul 13, 2013 10:13 am

Jim,

I don't think it's a big deal but (and I don't have my copy with me) I believe Canoecraft suggests tapering the stem to 3/8" (although I recall it being rather confusing - for my first canoe, I left it at 3/4" too). I recall that you were working from John Winters instructions which may well be different so I completely understand.

The (presumption on my part) reasoning behind the tapering guidance is to maximize the amount of hull at the joint between inner and outer stems. If the outer stem is the same width as the inner stem, the hull narrows down to a fairly narrow wedge of wood at the joint between the inner and outer stems as it approaches the end of the stems (imagine a cross-section taken on a plane drawn perpendicular to the keel-line). If the outer stems narrows, a bit more of the hull rests on the inner stem to support it from impacts. But of course, if the joints are well glued, they are plenty strong.

So again, I don't think this is a big deal.
Randy Pfeifer
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Randy.Pfeifer1@gmail.com

BearLeeAlive
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Re: Freedom Solo 15' 3" or 16' 2"

Post by BearLeeAlive » Sat Jul 13, 2013 2:27 pm

I had to draw a picture, but now see what you are referring to, Randy. It does make some good sense. Especially on flatter sections along the stem away from the ends. But also, like you say, properly glued up and laminated between sheets of epoxied fiberglass, it should be just fine either way.
-JIM-

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Re: Freedom Solo 15' 3" or 16' 2"

Post by Cruiser » Fri Aug 09, 2013 7:34 pm

It's going pretty well, just finished initial sanding and wetout.

Image

Image

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Re: Freedom Solo 15' 3" or 16' 2"

Post by Cruiser » Mon Aug 19, 2013 7:22 pm

Well, for better or worse the outside is fiber glassed, it went better than I expected but worse than I had hoped.
I know a few runs in the epoxy are expected, but I think the boat waits until you leave to create them.

I plan on leaving the hull for 5 days and then sanding from the keel to the edge of the chine, leaving the remaining portion (chine to sheer) till I release the hull and invert it. It will be much easier to deal with the concave portion with the boat upright, and I have a 2 places that will need to be "fixed" because I needed to split the cloth (1 on each side above the chine) to get it to lay flat. This may or may not have been wise, but unfortunately, once you start, you have to keep going ahead and that required a decision. I think having the boat upright will definitely make the finishing on the upper chine area a lot easier.

I will post a couple of pics in a day or so, I found that the epoxy didn't seem to absorb the same as I moved down the hull, despite having a mixer who also did the timing, I don't believe the time before squeegeeing (is that even a word) was different and the epoxy all setup perfectly, so I am confident she mixed correctly. Each section seems to be distinctly (slightly) different shade. I will deal with that later though, just glad I made it through the process for now.


Brian

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Re: Freedom Solo 15' 3" or 16' 2"

Post by Cruiser » Fri Aug 23, 2013 6:55 pm

So with the outer hull glassed and the plan for this weekend to get sanding done and the hull released from the molds, I have a few issues and am hoping for some feedback.

I am using East System epoxy, work area was ~72F, had a dedicated mixer/timer and I believe I followed all the right steps. Unfortunately, it looks like each section of applied epoxy is a slightly different colour.

Image

Evert single section is like this, and i am not sure if it is just the difference in epoxy depth at the overlap, or whether each section really is a slightly different colour. I have never seen anything like this during my travels through the building archives, anyone have any explanations? I really would prefer not to repeat a mistake, if I am making one. I am hoping that when I get it all sanded, that this will just magically be gone ... but I guess I won't know till I varnish.

Second, with the hard chine before the sheer, I missed a couple of "not exactly bubbles" , but sections where the fiberglass separated at the sheer and I just didn't catch it.

Image

These are mostly going to be covered by the gunnels, so I plan on just cutting them off, sanding and putting a new piece of FG, and finish sanding/epoxy to match.


Thanks
Brian

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Jim Dodd
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Re: Freedom Solo 15' 3" or 16' 2"

Post by Jim Dodd » Tue Sep 03, 2013 6:45 am

Hi Brian

How did you apply the epoxy ? With a roller ? Sometimes if you work too hard or fast with the roller, you will get air worked into the resin.

Now that it has cured, has it gone away ?

The hull looks good ! I to had a little gap at the gunnel, on the inside.

Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!

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Re: Freedom Solo 15' 3" or 16' 2"

Post by Jim Dodd » Tue Sep 03, 2013 4:43 pm

Sorry after I reread your post, I see you used a squeegee.

If the picture is were you started and finished, they will look slightly different because of the time on the hull, after they cure a day, they should blend in better.

Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!

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Re: Freedom Solo 15' 3" or 16' 2"

Post by Cruiser » Tue Sep 24, 2013 11:12 pm

Well, I have all the fiber glassing done now, I put an extra coat on the outer hull, because i think i sanded a little too far in a couple spots, at this stage I figured better safe than sorry.

Here are a couple of pics, I am now envisioning the first paddle .... whoa ... work to do before then

Image


and another one
Image

I am pretty happy so far, it being my first and all.


Brian

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