15' 0" Prospector Ranger

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Joan and Ted
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15' 0" Prospector Ranger

Post by Joan and Ted » Sun Aug 15, 2004 7:45 am

Use this forum to post information specific to your 15' 0" Prospector Ranger project. Use POST REPLY when posting information. Please stay on topic. For general boatbuilding discussions, please use the Builders Forum instead.

fisherguytoo
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Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2004 9:25 pm
Location: Central Calif. foothills

15' Prospector-Ranger

Post by fisherguytoo » Thu Dec 02, 2004 5:02 pm

Hi,
I am a 1st time strip canoe builder and am happly in progress of building the subject
canoe. The strongback went well, as did the forms. If I do build another canoe in the future I will not use pressed board for the forms. It works well, but, does seem to come apart when screws are set into the edges of the forms. So I would not try to use them more then once. However, I did use 3/8" material for the forms and perhaps they would have worked better had I used a thicker material such as 1/2" pressboard.

I have incountered no other real problems that I could not find a workable solution for.
So, at this point I am a happy camper.
My project to date is, that I will add the last strip to one side of the bottom this afternoon
and be ready to establish and cut the centerline on the bottom prior to completing the other side and finish planking the bottom.

I decided to use 3/16" planking made of ERC and Redwood, as my main goal is to minimize the weight of the canoe when completed.

Correspondence with builders of this model canoe will be happly rec'd.

Ken Handy
fisherguytoo@volcano.net

Jody

Post by Jody » Tue Dec 07, 2004 7:11 pm

I'm Building a prospector Ranger. I'm thinking about attaching a keel. Anybody have any opinions on that? Jody

IslandStripper
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Keel

Post by IslandStripper » Tue Dec 07, 2004 7:47 pm

Jody,

I built a 15 Ranger last year and it tracks quite well, I wouldn't worry about installing one, no need.

However, if you do I would suggest scarfing it on to the ends of the outer stems before you epoxy the outer stems into their final position. This would allow for a nice transition from the keel to the stems and help fairing the rest of the outer stems.

photos of the canoe @ photos.yahoo.com\davidjrollins

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psimer
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Location: Lake Lanier (Gainesville) GA

Post by psimer » Fri Jan 28, 2005 10:00 am

I built this Ranger in June of 2003. It was my first Cedar strip boat and I really enjoyed the process. Here are some pic of the finished canoe.

Image
Image
Image
Image
Dana H P'Simer Sr.
Don't start a vast project with a halfvast idea.

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joatmon
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Location: Cleveland, Ohio

New canoe maker going at it hard

Post by joatmon » Mon Mar 28, 2005 10:59 pm

Strips are milled, strongback is up (and level), lofting is done, moulds are ready to be cut. Guess being out of work has its advantages. Now if that darn tax return would come so I can order my epoxy and fiberglass, I'll be rolling. :wink
An Irishman has an abiding sense of tragedy which sustains him through temporary periods of joy.

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Tim ODonnell
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Sheer lines on forms

Post by Tim ODonnell » Tue May 10, 2005 1:38 pm

Hi,

My name is Tim O'Donnell, this is my first post and first solo canoe build.

My question is regarding the sheer lines on the mold stations. On the plans these are marked on stations 6, 5, & 4, but not marked on stations 3, 2, 1, & 0. Or are the horizontal lines on the mold station drawing the sheer lines for each station

Thanks

Tim

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Glen Smith
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Post by Glen Smith » Tue May 10, 2005 1:53 pm

Hi Tim and welcome aboard. Some of the molds may have a sheerline identified and for the other molds, the horizontal line becomes the sheerline.

Note: some builders identify the sheerline on all the molds but they don't cut the molds on the sheerline. Rather, they extend the mold height a bit. This can be done for different reasons. 1) to add an extra strip to increase the hull depth. 2) So the sheer strip can be installed a little higher than the sheerline when using bead & cove strips because either the bead or cove will be planed off after installing the gunwales.

If you have any building-specific questions, do not hesitate to post them on the "Builders' Forum" where they will attract more responses.

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Tim ODonnell
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thanks

Post by Tim ODonnell » Tue May 10, 2005 3:07 pm

Glen, thanks for answering my question.

Tim

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joatmon
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Welcome

Post by joatmon » Tue May 10, 2005 8:09 pm

Finally, another Ohio builder. :smile Have fun.
An Irishman has an abiding sense of tragedy which sustains him through temporary periods of joy.

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Tim ODonnell
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Location: Columbus, Ohio

Build in progress

Post by Tim ODonnell » Tue Jul 05, 2005 11:23 pm

Thanks for the welcome joatmon.

I finished my forms, built the strong back and stripped up both sides and to the middle on one side. It all seems to be coming together well. I put a picture of it as my avatar. I am very happy with the results so far.

Last September my dad and I spent a week in Maine. We took Ted's class and I would highly recommend it. It was a great week and it has helped me tremendously with my build. Today was the first time I needed help with putting the strips on. Once I reached the flat part (the bottom of the boat) I found it very difficult to get the strips in without getting glue everywhere and damaging the strips. Another pair of hands solved all my problems.

Good luck to you all.

Tim

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ealger
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Cutting molds from 4 x 8 sheet

Post by ealger » Mon Aug 01, 2005 10:55 pm

I'm getting ready to cut molds for a Ranger 15' and discovered that stations 0 thru 3 require 24 7/8" in the vertical. Is there a reason why I can just raise the baseline up 7/8" on all the stations including the stem form so as to get all the molds from 2 sheets? Am I missing something here?
Ed...
Ed Alger

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Glen Smith
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Post by Glen Smith » Mon Aug 01, 2005 11:20 pm

It is possible to work your way around this situation if your strongback is just a bit shorter than the boat to be built on it. You can cut the stem forms so a small portion extends down below the surface of the strongback but you will have to taper the sides of the strongback top surface so you can strip the sheer-line portion of the stems.

Someone here did just that, I'll see if I can find pics. Well, there was a photo available but it is now a dead link. As I said, have the strongback a bit shorter than the boat and taper the ends. This should provide the clearance you need to strip in that area.

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ealger
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Post by ealger » Tue Aug 02, 2005 9:38 am

Thanks Glen for the reply. I think you're correct. Even though the stem mold will extend past the strongback, the shear line will be very close to strongback if I reduce the baseline. I guess I'll just have to bite the bullet and buy 3 sheets and add and extra inch to the base line.
Ed...
Ed Alger

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Ed Houston
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Eureka she's finished.

Post by Ed Houston » Sun Sep 04, 2005 10:22 am

:eyebrows Photos of my Prospector Ranger can be found at the following.


http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/prospecto ... /my_photos

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