17' 0" Nomad

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Glen Smith
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Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:08 am
Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada

Post by Glen Smith » Tue May 20, 2008 9:32 pm

Am I correct in assuming that the outer stem will be mortised into the hull strips about an inch or so before the end of the inner stem to eliminate the possibility of cutting a hole in the hull? If this is so, then I need strips to be above the inner stem. Are you saying that when I miter, those ends will be above the stem and I should make sure that they lay flat on the inner stem?

Part 1 of your questions: Yes, the outer stem must stop about 1" before reaching the inboard end of the inner stem to avoid creating a hole in the hull.

Part 2 of your questions: When you say "those ends will be above the stem", if you mean the ends of the strips in the horizontal portion of the inner stem, then the answer is "yes". The strip ends will be glued to the inner stem but rather than being on the sides of the inner stem as is the case in the vertical portion, the strips will be more in a horizontal position so they will be "above the inner stem". This is the portion that will be morticed and tapered to receive the outer stem.

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Woodchuck
Posts: 140
Joined: Mon Aug 01, 2005 7:56 am
Location: Garden City, MI

Starting to make sense...

Post by Woodchuck » Wed May 21, 2008 8:01 am

Gettin close, Glen... I actually saw a picture in my minds eye when I read your last reply. Knowing were the mortise will go for sure helps a bunch. I now see that I can still follow the shape of the mold, there is a little peak on the top, and blend it in with the stem. This will give me a little hump but I guess that's where the morltise will go. I think I'm on the right track but I will send photo's late today or tomorrow, OK Again, I really appreciated your quick response and great expertise. You are a valuable asset on this website.
Thanks again in advance, CYA, Joe
Joe "Woodchuck" Gledhill
Garden City, MI

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Woodchuck
Posts: 140
Joined: Mon Aug 01, 2005 7:56 am
Location: Garden City, MI

1-2 more strips...

Post by Woodchuck » Fri May 23, 2008 10:33 am

Took a few photo's and most are on the web site but there are two that I want to put here showing the hull to stem junction. I now see what you are talking about and am now proceeding with the final transition. It was not clear in the book as you mentioned but if you just keep going, it gets clearer as you get closer to the horizontal. It's easy to say this after you've gotten there but one gets scared when you don't know what is coming. I hope these photo's help if I can get them uploaded...

Image

Image

Thanks again, CYA, Joe
Joe "Woodchuck" Gledhill
Garden City, MI

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Glen Smith
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Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:08 am
Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada

Post by Glen Smith » Mon May 26, 2008 10:16 pm

Hi Joe, I corrected the photo URL's.

I hope after the photos were taken any further strips added were mitered at the ends so you don't end up with too much distance between their outer faces and the outer stems will be able to cover the mortise.

The last strips added before reaching one inch from the end of the inner stems should be mitered tightly together as they will be laying fairly horizontal and you want to be able to cut the mortise tapered down to 3/8" wide.

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Woodchuck
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Joined: Mon Aug 01, 2005 7:56 am
Location: Garden City, MI

Post by Woodchuck » Tue May 27, 2008 9:09 am

Thanks for correcting the url's, the pics look OK... I am proceeding with stripping the right half of the bottom now and then cutting the centerline then stripping other side. I will have a lot of mitering and cutting in but I guess that's par for the course. My "football" seems to extend from outside the stems but I think that's because of the horizontal accent stripe that prevented me from building up the sides more before the mitering of the stems. I understand what has to happen now but just wishing that part was done...
CYA, Joe
Joe "Woodchuck" Gledhill
Garden City, MI

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Glen Smith
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Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:08 am
Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada

Post by Glen Smith » Tue May 27, 2008 9:13 am

Joe, it is normal to have to fill in one side before the inner stems have been covered. I think you are doing well.

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Woodchuck
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Location: Garden City, MI

Post by Woodchuck » Tue May 27, 2008 5:22 pm

Thanks Glen... I'm now at 22 strips on one side and closing in fast...

Image
Image
Joe "Woodchuck" Gledhill
Garden City, MI

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Glen Smith
Posts: 3719
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Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada

Post by Glen Smith » Tue May 27, 2008 6:18 pm

That's good progress, Joe. I really like the accent strips.

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Woodchuck
Posts: 140
Joined: Mon Aug 01, 2005 7:56 am
Location: Garden City, MI

Update...

Post by Woodchuck » Wed Jun 18, 2008 7:16 pm

Well, a few delays but back in the garage... As you progress day by day on these stems, you finally see what everyone is talking about. Anyway, I'm two strips beyond the stem and putting the compound angles chiseled into each strip end in order to get a good fit with the centerline. A pain in the a** but just a little more time and care needed to make it look good.

My main reason for this update is a technique to adjust the width of the strip so the strips match up with it's partner on the other side. The solution for this problem really bugged me until I tried removing the bead with a chisel and then using a radius tool the I got at Woodcraft to put it back on. It's a little piece of steel with a slot that cuts a 3/16" and a 1/4" radius on the edge as you drag it over the work piece. Very simple and it worked great so another problem solved. Using this technique allows an adjustment of up to a 1/4" towards alignment. Especially useful when you have a pattern in the football area.

I also failed to mention the tool I used for the stem shaping. I have spokeshaves, etc. but I never liked them and finally I tried a Microplane. This is the cheese grader turned woodworker and it is the answer to shaping stems. Also from Woodcraft. I had to buy a replacement blade because I pushed too hard and cracked one edge but it will stay sharp and do at least a couple of canoes before replacing.

When I update my website, I will include pictures of both of these tools.

That's it for now... :wink :wink :wink

CYA, Joe
Joe "Woodchuck" Gledhill
Garden City, MI

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Woodchuck
Posts: 140
Joined: Mon Aug 01, 2005 7:56 am
Location: Garden City, MI

Stripping Update...

Post by Woodchuck » Sun Jul 06, 2008 6:10 pm

Well, no more strips... Next I have to draw on the sheer line then mortice and mount the stems and then on to glassing. At least, now I have a Canoe... Here's a photo...

Image

CYA, Joe :wink :wink :wink

For more stuff, here's my web site... http://nomad17.home.comcast.net
Joe "Woodchuck" Gledhill
Garden City, MI

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Glen Smith
Posts: 3719
Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:08 am
Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada

Post by Glen Smith » Sun Jul 06, 2008 6:18 pm

Looks great, Joe! I love that accent strip.

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Woodchuck
Posts: 140
Joined: Mon Aug 01, 2005 7:56 am
Location: Garden City, MI

Attaching outer stems...

Post by Woodchuck » Mon Jul 14, 2008 8:15 pm

OK Guys, I'm ready to attach one end of the outer stems. It is fitting pretty good and with a little more work, I will be happy with it. The question is... Can I use my Titebond III waterproof glue that I have used for the entire canoe or do I have to use Epoxy like the book says? Is there some reason to use the Epoxy over Titebond and if so, what is the reason as I would like to use the Titebond with some sanding flour. I'm hoping that it's because the new glues were not out on the market when the book was written but I just want to make sure before I do something stupid... what me!???
Thanks in advance,
Joe
:thinking :thinking :thinking
Joe "Woodchuck" Gledhill
Garden City, MI

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Glen Smith
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Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:08 am
Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada

Post by Glen Smith » Mon Jul 14, 2008 8:26 pm

I would use the Titebond only if I was sure I could achieve a tight joint with no gaps and if I was going to apply some bias-cut strips over the stems. Some people might consider this as "overbuilding" but it is just my preference. Other opinions may vary.


Have you done any tests with the Titebond thickened with wood flour? You wouldn't want to experiment with that for the first time on your nearly completed canoe.

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Woodchuck
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Location: Garden City, MI

Post by Woodchuck » Tue Jul 15, 2008 8:13 am

Good advice Glen... Thanks
I also had a nice talk with the West System people and one of them mentioned the color issue. He said the the Titebond will dry dark which it does and Epoxy dries clear and with a little flour, you can closely match color and hide any gaps in stem fit. I have ordered the Cabosil (?) and will use Epoxy.
Thanks again, Joe
Joe "Woodchuck" Gledhill
Garden City, MI

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Woodchuck
Posts: 140
Joined: Mon Aug 01, 2005 7:56 am
Location: Garden City, MI

Ready for Glassing...

Post by Woodchuck » Thu Jul 24, 2008 8:10 pm

Hi All,
Finally got the stems mounted and I'm ready for glassing after some more sanding. Would like to do this process over again but all in all, it turned out OK. The gaps are small enough that with the curves and shaping of the stems, you can't see anything that looks out of place. I must say that the West System #410 Microspheres rock...
Image
My website is now updated with the latest pictures.
http://nomad17.home.comcast.net
Joe "Woodchuck" Gledhill
Garden City, MI

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