Non-Bear Mountain Designs

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Cruiser
Posts: 632
Joined: Sat Apr 27, 2013 10:21 am
Location: Bowmanville, Ontario

Re: Non-Bear Mountain Designs

Post by Cruiser » Sat Jul 25, 2015 7:01 pm

Curing time is up, outside sanding complete. Just removed it from the molds, flipped it over and setup to do the inside.

Cradles for doing the inside:

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Inside looks pretty clean, might be easier cleanup than last boat:

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Hoping to get inside glassed next weekend.


Brian
Last edited by Cruiser on Sun Nov 18, 2018 10:35 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Cruiser
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Re: Non-Bear Mountain Designs

Post by Cruiser » Sat Aug 22, 2015 8:02 am

And the build continues .... I was ready to start the inside fiberglassing, but the glass I had had some wrinkles when I unrolled it, as did the replacement roll .... I finally drove to the supplier and they rolled what I needed carefully and i took that home .... but in the time between finding and resolving the glass issues, I did some of the next work.

The theme for the boat trim is cherry/walnut striped, I only attempted this because I got a new toy for the shop. A Dewalt DW735 planer ... how did I manage without a planer for soooo long.

Rough cherry going through to become beautiful ...

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Skarfing up the cherry to get my 18 foot length ...

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I cut the 1x4x18' cherry to strips ..... along the way I made up some walnut strips as well, this getting them ready for epoxy ..

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I am so glad I took advantage of Canadian Tires clamp sale last year ... this is the first gunnel epoxy layup
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Cleaning epoxy from 1 side of the gunnel, so the planer can clean it up

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Inside glassing is complete, even though there was some hassle getting good glass, I am happy with the product and I made use of the delay time

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First gunnel half cleaned up and attached ....

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Will update latest work in a few days ....


Brian
Last edited by Cruiser on Sun Nov 18, 2018 10:52 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Jim Dodd
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Re: Non-Bear Mountain Designs

Post by Jim Dodd » Sat Aug 22, 2015 10:34 am

Looks great Brian !

What scarf rate did you use ? 10 to 1 ?

Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!

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Cruiser
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Re: Non-Bear Mountain Designs

Post by Cruiser » Sat Aug 22, 2015 11:52 am

Hi Jim,

I thought long and hard about what rate to use, given it was being laminated and I was using epoxy ... I decided that 1:6 would be enough and it was a lot easier to execute. I just made sure none of the skarfs were anywhere near each other


It this was a single piece to be used directly, I likely would have gone with a higher rate.



Brian

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Re: Non-Bear Mountain Designs

Post by Cruiser » Sun Aug 30, 2015 8:59 pm

I have a trip coming up soon, trying to get this build completed to get a maiden voyage in this year.

The gunnel install went well, this is a shot of the second set of thwarts ... I hated the first set, what looks good in your head doesn't always translate well to reality. You can see completed gunnels and thwart seat "bumps" ....also thwarts are using hidden hardware for mounting.

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I competed building the seats, this is front one fitted ... they have both been fitted, removed, sanded and are waiting for varnish.

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For the decks, I wanted something different ... something ... hard to explain ... but the mental thought process was an abstract of nature... something reflecting the growth of plants .... not sure if I hit that mark, but I am happy with the result. They installed really well (tonight) and i am planning on prepping for varnish now .... tomorrow will be messy ... lots of sanding and cleaning.

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Yes, why the heck would I put in 2 thwarts ... I can hear the question now. I hate standard carry yokes, I intend to add a couple of cross pieces across the thwarts for carrying... I have to figure something clever for that, but I don't think it will be very tough to get something comfy for this trip. I will find a permanent solution afterwards.

Brian
Last edited by Cruiser on Sun Nov 18, 2018 11:03 am, edited 1 time in total.

Morecowbell
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Re: Non-Bear Mountain Designs

Post by Morecowbell » Sun Sep 06, 2015 9:42 am

Brian,

Please keep the updates coming! The lines of this hull design are just beautiful - those transitions make me drool...I know it paddles well but looking forward to your impressions. I'm getting used to the profile of the Winters and Killing designs. Part of me wants a more traditional look and part of me appreciates the pure function - sort of a Shaker approach to canoe design...but that hull shape...wow!

And a thumbs up on the decks - really like the thought process and result. Can't wait to see the finished product.

Clay

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Re: Non-Bear Mountain Designs

Post by Cruiser » Sat Sep 12, 2015 4:25 pm

Well, I did finish the build in time, but unfortunately, due to an illness in one guys family, we had to domino paddlers and since I also have the solo boat, I get to go solo ... and my shiny new tandem Kipawa has to stay at home.

I will hit the water with my better half when I get back from Algonquin Park.

So I offer a few pics .... first on the neighbours wet lawn (close as it has been to water)

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Inside shot:

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Bottom:
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Stern and Bow stems:
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A repeat of the seats I designed last build:
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Bow and Stern Decks, I am pretty happy with how they turned out:

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I have a few touch ups and minor mods to make, but the project is essentially done.



Brian

Minor Update 3 August 2016
I took the boat out in May this year for it's maiden voyage and in a word, wood is soooo much better than composite (IMO). It is very stable, quick and a joy to paddle.
Didn't get very much bad weather, but had some waves which the canoe basically ignored and just kept tracking straight.
From the stern position the boat is very easy to control and turns fairly well with minimal effort, and tracks very well.

Brian
Last edited by Cruiser on Sun Nov 18, 2018 11:11 am, edited 3 times in total.

Morecowbell
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Re: Non-Bear Mountain Designs

Post by Morecowbell » Tue Sep 15, 2015 10:08 am

Love the lines of this design - beautiful work Brian.

Please update us when you get it on the water!

Clay

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Daniel Pradella
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Location: Caxias do Sul, RS ,Brasil

Re: Non-Bear Mountain Designs

Post by Daniel Pradella » Tue Sep 15, 2015 6:55 pm

Lindo's work dek, loved the idea. Congratulations.
Daniel

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Jim Dodd
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Location: Iowa

Re: Non-Bear Mountain Designs

Post by Jim Dodd » Mon Mar 07, 2016 9:54 pm

Oldest son decided to build his first canoe.
Wanting something small, that his 7yr old daughter could paddle, and that could be displayed in a future cabin.

I talked him into shortening an Arkansas Traveler to 14'. I had forms and set them up.
We are calling it The Iowa Traveler.
Here's a few piccs !
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Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!

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Cruiser
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Re: Non-Bear Mountain Designs

Post by Cruiser » Mon Mar 07, 2016 10:31 pm

Nice build Jim, seems like it is a complete family affair.


Brian

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Jim Dodd
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Re: Non-Bear Mountain Designs

Post by Jim Dodd » Wed Mar 09, 2016 8:25 pm

Thanks Brian

Ben did a rough sand.
I filled the long staple holes(the 9/16") with Elmer's Max and finish sanded. To date, Elmer's Max has been my best choice for staple hole filling ! This is my second try with it, and I've tried many many other methods. I dab a little glue on the holes, and wipe with my finger, forcing the glue into the hole. Prior to the finish sand.

Ready to glass this weekend.
more pics.

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Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!

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Jim Dodd
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Location: Iowa

Re: Non-Bear Mountain Designs

Post by Jim Dodd » Sat Mar 12, 2016 10:42 pm

Finished glassing the outside of the Traveler.
Here's a few pics.
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Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!

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Cruiser
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Re: Non-Bear Mountain Designs

Post by Cruiser » Sun Mar 13, 2016 7:55 am

Nice job Jim.

A question about your strip alignment, it seems almost inevitable that strips from each side will be slightly out of alignment and that will not be apparent until after you start the final stripping after the centre line cut. What do you do to "adjust" that alignment? I notice yours are right on.



Brian

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Jim Dodd
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Re: Non-Bear Mountain Designs

Post by Jim Dodd » Sun Mar 13, 2016 7:35 pm

Thanks Brian
Alignment of the strips is dependent on a few things. Accurate marking of the forms, and uniform strip width. I accomplish this by running my strips between the fence and the router bit, when bead and coving.

The center line must be accurately marked and accurately cut. A trick when fitting strips to the centerline joint. Take a few scrap pieces of strips, and lay them in the cove, opposite of the center line cut. Slide them up until they meet the strips on the other side. They should meet the strip on the other side, at the wide side of the taper. Sometimes you can adjust the joint with a small hand plane.
I use the same plane Ben used to fit the center piece.
Wished I'd taken a pic ! It would help a lot explaining !

Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!

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