I'm going to build a Freedom and am considering using 1/2" or 5/8" MDF for the formers instead of plywood. It seems that it works smoother than plywood, and is cheaper. I plan to us the stapleless method as noted on page 125 of "Canoecraft."
How about 5/8" or 3/4" MDF for the strongback?
MDF for the strongback and formers?
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- KARKAUAI
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I used 1/2" MDF and it worked OK, but NEXT TIME I'll use plywood. MDF is slick and clamps have to be really clamped down HARD to hold, and the brads/screws you may have to use (sheer line and occasional difficult-to-hold strips) will hold better. I use strap clamps around the forms to keep the strips against them, and 3/4" forms will work better for that than 1/2". If you use the method in canoe craft, 1/2" will work fine.
A hui ho,
Kent
Kent
- Juneaudave
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I used 3/4 AC for my strongback and 1/2 ac ply for the molds on my first canoe. On the current project, I cut the molds from 1/2 in particle board (as opposed to MDF) and liked it a whole lot better than the ply. The particle board hold staples well and is easy to work. They were plenty strong enough that you could reuse the molds for several like canoes. Some earlier posts criticized MDF as not holding staples well and being too hard.
- davidb54321
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I used 3/4" AC ply for my strongback and 1/2" luan plywood for my station molds. It is smooth on each side which really helps whan tracing the patterns. The luan probably does not hold a staple as well as particle board or AC. but I built without staples anyway.
The luan was quite a bit less $ than plywood.
The luan was quite a bit less $ than plywood.
David Bartlett
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