Hi there, my name is Cam and I am looking to build my own canoe.
My question for you is this: which design will do it all? Well, not all, just most. I am looking for a design that is managable when solo paddling, but large enough for two adults and 1-2 kids (none now, but one on the way) to handle camping gear, etc. It will be all lake/slow river paddling, no white water. Right now I'm leaning toward the Nomad because it has the size to handle the family, or the Freedom 17 (but I prefer the lines of the Nomad) But my concern is this will be too much to handle solo justout for a daytrip. My other idea is the Prospector 16, but will this be large enought to handle the family/gear?
I'm still in the planning stages, although I did get impatient and built the strongback on the weekend... :twisted evil
Also, I've been searching for, but can't seem to locate the actual amount of wood I will need for the planking. I've seen approx. 60 board feet mentioned a couple times...is this acurate? And, approximately how many strips is this?
Thank you for the guidance, this new guy really appreciates it!
New guy, same old question...
Hi Cam, with two adults plus child plus gear, you'll need a large canoe. The Nomad will have more volume than the Freedom 17. Soloing will still be possible but smaller canoes are better.
Two canoes might be a better option if solo paddling is wanted... maybe a Prospector and a Freedom 17, the Freedom paddles nicely solo and so does the Prospector although it's more affected by wind. Two canoes will also make tripping more enjoyable since there's less crowding and the paddling is easier.
Two canoes might be a better option if solo paddling is wanted... maybe a Prospector and a Freedom 17, the Freedom paddles nicely solo and so does the Prospector although it's more affected by wind. Two canoes will also make tripping more enjoyable since there's less crowding and the paddling is easier.
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Davesbuild
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- Location: Peterborough, Ontario, Canada
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Hi Cam,
I am in the process of building a 16'-2" Huron Cruiser. I purchased 50 B.F. for my project and I am just about right. I had reasonably good wood and very little waste, so I would guess that 60 B.F. would give you enough for a 17' craft. Keep in mind that for every two 1/4" strips that you cut on a table saw, you leave one on the floor in dust from the kerf of the blade!
From experience in recently going thru this process, use extreme care when fprming the bead & cove.. it will be important when placing the planking and fairing the hull.
Best of Luck,
Davesbuild
I am in the process of building a 16'-2" Huron Cruiser. I purchased 50 B.F. for my project and I am just about right. I had reasonably good wood and very little waste, so I would guess that 60 B.F. would give you enough for a 17' craft. Keep in mind that for every two 1/4" strips that you cut on a table saw, you leave one on the floor in dust from the kerf of the blade!
From experience in recently going thru this process, use extreme care when fprming the bead & cove.. it will be important when placing the planking and fairing the hull.
Best of Luck,
Davesbuild
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Glen Smith
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- Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada
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Davesbuild
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2008 5:51 pm
- Location: Peterborough, Ontario, Canada
- Contact:
that's a good choice given the cost of wood these days... I hadn't thought of using a 7.25 blade in my 10" table saw....
I also cut my strips 30/1000 over (0.280" thickness) and ran the bead and cove (0.250")on the comon plane. This gave me a little wiggle room for error.... When I installed the strips, I placed the 30/1000 extra on the outside of the hull to allow me a little more "meat in the strips" to fair on the exterior...not sure yet if this was useful, but being a first-time builder, my hull looks "reasonable" to me after fairing, although I have done "lots" of fairing.. I consider it a trade-off...first-time-jitters and additional caution... don't want to end up with $500.00 worth of kindling.....
Dave
I also cut my strips 30/1000 over (0.280" thickness) and ran the bead and cove (0.250")on the comon plane. This gave me a little wiggle room for error.... When I installed the strips, I placed the 30/1000 extra on the outside of the hull to allow me a little more "meat in the strips" to fair on the exterior...not sure yet if this was useful, but being a first-time builder, my hull looks "reasonable" to me after fairing, although I have done "lots" of fairing.. I consider it a trade-off...first-time-jitters and additional caution... don't want to end up with $500.00 worth of kindling.....
Dave
Okay...A couple questions. And one slightly frustrated fist shake! Rick, thanks for putting the idea of two canoes in my head! Now I'm wondering if two smaller canoes (Ranger, Bob's Special, Prospector, etc) would be a better option, and offer more flexiblity. I'll explain: I know I like canoeing, I've been in a canoe since I was a kid, but my wife hasn't been in a canoe more than a half dozen times, and the family I'm worried about accomodating is still a ways off...our first child is due in April '09. So, if I was to build one canoe of a design that is of a moderate size eg: able to accomodate two adults, yet be easily soloable...is that a word?...and then, down the road, build a second canoe of the same size, so that family trips I could paddle one, my wife the other...Also meaning I get to build two! The flip side of that is, if my wife really isn't that interested once she gets a chance to try canoeing out, I'm not stuck with a boat that isn't designed for what I'm actually doing with it, which would be solo (or me and child) day trips. I'm liking this option right now, as I can't really come up with a major downside. Any ideas/suggestions?
On to my question: What would the advantage be of using a 7 1/4" blade on a 10" table saw? I understand the thinner kerf, but am curious about the diameter.
Oh, and an update, I found a place locally that can get me the cedar, and determined that I can get 16 or more strips out of a 1x6 meaning that four boards the proper length will give me 64 or more full length strips (taking into account clamping room using the circular saw method) which should be good from what I've read!
Sorry that's so long...Just started rambling. I'm kind of excited it's staring to come together.
On to my question: What would the advantage be of using a 7 1/4" blade on a 10" table saw? I understand the thinner kerf, but am curious about the diameter.
Oh, and an update, I found a place locally that can get me the cedar, and determined that I can get 16 or more strips out of a 1x6 meaning that four boards the proper length will give me 64 or more full length strips (taking into account clamping room using the circular saw method) which should be good from what I've read!
Sorry that's so long...Just started rambling. I'm kind of excited it's staring to come together.
Cam. the Bob's is a popular canoe for soloing and lighter tripping... the suitability will depend on how heavily it'll be loaded and how much space you need for gear. If soloing is in the cards (wife and canoeing = no deal) then the Bob's could be good choice for the first canoe, esp if canoeing with child.
The Prospector is larger with more volume and could be more difficult to solo in wind, because it will float higher and the wind will affect it more. But it is still a good canoe going solo and will have plenty of volume for gear, solo and tandem.
The Freedom 17 will need a kneeling thwart amidships since it's a modern asymmetrical desigh and can't be paddled reversed from the bow seat. It's a fast narrow tandem, solos well and will have enough space for gear.
I went with the Huron because IMO of the great looks... it's a very good canoe for soloing (I'm 230 pounds), on the small side for comfortable tandem trips (fast when tandem paddled). Some say it's too tippy and prefer a larger, wider canoe.
These may be available for daily rental, especially Prospectors, so that might help you decide, too large, too small, etc.
Good luck!
The Prospector is larger with more volume and could be more difficult to solo in wind, because it will float higher and the wind will affect it more. But it is still a good canoe going solo and will have plenty of volume for gear, solo and tandem.
The Freedom 17 will need a kneeling thwart amidships since it's a modern asymmetrical desigh and can't be paddled reversed from the bow seat. It's a fast narrow tandem, solos well and will have enough space for gear.
I went with the Huron because IMO of the great looks... it's a very good canoe for soloing (I'm 230 pounds), on the small side for comfortable tandem trips (fast when tandem paddled). Some say it's too tippy and prefer a larger, wider canoe.
These may be available for daily rental, especially Prospectors, so that might help you decide, too large, too small, etc.
Good luck!