Shear Line Help

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ealger
Posts: 387
Joined: Sat Aug 14, 2004 5:14 pm

Shear Line Help

Post by ealger »

Perhaps everyone knows this:
It’s nice to be able to start the first strip beyond the shear line a half a strip, more or less. Supporting the first strip beyond the shear line can be a problem if the mold is cut right at the shear line. One way is to leave an extra inch or so on the mold beyond the shear line, to support the first strip, but this presents an obstruction when trimming the shear line when the stripping is completed.

One way to help this situation is to add “shear line extensions” (SLEs).
1) Cut the molds at the shear line as normal prior to cutting the outside portion of the mold. (You know, at the “mushroom” ). This would be molds 0 – 4 or 5 on the Ranger or Prospector.
2) Next cut 18 pieces ¾” x 6” from scrap material left over from the molds.
3) Drill 2 holes per SLE so as to screw them to the underside of the mold at the shear line. Leave the SLEs proud of the mold edge so it can be trimmed flush in the next step.
4) After the SLEs are attached, then proceed to finish cutting out the rest of the mold trimming the SLEs flush with the mold edge and route the clamping grooves as desired.

After the hull is stripped, remove the SLEs and using a cardboard template, transfer the shear line to the outside of the hull. This transfer is easy now because the mold shear line is free.

Mark out the shear line and cut the wood proud of the line. I like to use my Makita battery powered 3” circular saw. A utility knife can be used.

Now if I can just learn how to wet-out fiberglass, I’ll be set. :eyebrows
Ed…
Ed Alger
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