Bead and cove video

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Jim Dodd
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Bead and cove video

Post by Jim Dodd »

First I apologize for the alien look alike starring in this video !
It's a short clip, made short by a gust of wind.
This is how I do it.http://vid1272.photobucket.com/albums/y ... hnxiqk.mp4 Also a pic of my table set up also. Image

Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!
crewsr
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Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2020 9:38 pm

Re: Bead and cove video

Post by crewsr »

I would love to see the video, but it won't let me, is there a way I can see it now?
Also, I have tried to make the cove and bead finding it hard to leave a shoulder on the cove. I read somewhere here in the site that if the cove is too thin at the edge it could be damaged easily.
thanks,
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Jim Dodd
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Re: Bead and cove video

Post by Jim Dodd »

Sorry for the lost video crewsr ! Photobucket no longer supports videos.

Starting with uniformly cut strips, the first challenge to producing good usable bead and coved strips.

I accomplish this with a Skilsaw with a fence clamped to it. The skilsaw is inexpensive, and your strongback works as the sawhorse to cut your planks on.
I believe I have a thread on this site, explaining my method. If not ? http://www.canoetripping.net/forums/for ... ing-strips

Sometimes coving the strips will leave a very fine edge on the lips. I don't worry about them, even if they break. Sanding goes deep enough , that they don't cause an issue later. If by chance they do, a little filler, or wood glue mixed with fine sawdust will hide the flaw !

Again sorry about the video ! One important note though, run your strips, especially when cutting the bead ? Between the fence and router bit, on your table ! As pictured ! This will insure the uniformity you need for good strips .

Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!
pfunkmke
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Re: Bead and cove video

Post by pfunkmke »

Hi Jim,
New to the community doing a lot of browsing/research for first boat (built a few cedar strip soap box derby cars 30 years ago as a kid).
Question is this: I'm pretty sure of the answer but confirming/pointing out that if piece goes between bit and fence, feed is from opposite direction correct? Between bit and fence left to right, normal operation right to left.
Secondary question: both cove and bead this way will ensure all stock is same width, eliminating need to plane raw material?
Thanks in advance!
Oregon Paddler
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Joined: Tue Jun 02, 2020 7:08 pm

Re: Bead and cove video

Post by Oregon Paddler »

Jim, I am new to this forum. I’m researching ideas before launching into building a canoe. I have limited space and equipment and am interested in using the skilsaw technique to rip my cedar planking. I get the part about clamping a fence to the saw to get a consistent thickness. My question is how did you keep the board you were cutting from secured? I have read on some forum somewhere that using this technique with care produced strips with enough accuracy that they did not require planning. Did you find this to be true?
Any advice or suggestions you have would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Diego,
When I keep my gratitude a little higher than my expectations, it's usually a good day.
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Cruiser
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Re: Bead and cove video

Post by Cruiser »

OP ...not Jim, but I will answer anyway (lol)

I have a few pics and explanation just a little way down in my current build link, maybe take a look and if you still have questions we can go further.

https://www.canoetripping.net/forums/fo ... pper-build

Brian
Oregon Paddler
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Re: Bead and cove video

Post by Oregon Paddler »

Thanks Brian, that was very helpful, particularly the part about stabilizing the knots before ripping hadn't heard of that before. Still in the early research stages.
Diego,
When I keep my gratitude a little higher than my expectations, it's usually a good day.
Oregon Paddler
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Re: Bead and cove video

Post by Oregon Paddler »

Jim, What is the router cove bit in the photo?

Diego
Diego,
When I keep my gratitude a little higher than my expectations, it's usually a good day.
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Jim Dodd
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Re: Bead and cove video

Post by Jim Dodd »

Hi Diego

That is a 1/8" Radius bit. Commonly known as a 1/4" bead bit. I buy the 1/2" Shank. But a 1/4" Shank is fine !
I purchased this set( Bead and Cove bits), on Ebay for less than $20 a set. They work great . The Key here is you are only cutting 1/4" thick Cedar. A cheap bit is plenty good.

Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!
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Jim Dodd
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Re: Bead and cove video

Post by Jim Dodd »

Oregon Paddler wrote: Fri Jun 05, 2020 1:43 pm Jim, I am new to this forum. I’m researching ideas before launching into building a canoe. I have limited space and equipment and am interested in using the skilsaw technique to rip my cedar planking. I get the part about clamping a fence to the saw to get a consistent thickness. My question is how did you keep the board you were cutting from secured? I have read on some forum somewhere that using this technique with care produced strips with enough accuracy that they did not require planning. Did you find this to be true?
Any advice or suggestions you have would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Thanks Brian ! Great advise.

I Started out using a very small nail at the very end of the plank, close to the opposite side that I was cutting strips. This works fine, just beware it's there, when you cut that last strip.
I have used Hot melt glue also ! It works fine, and no worry about hitting the nail, with the blade.

The Skilsaw does an outstanding job, with accuracy, and smoothness of the cut ! Definitely NO need to plane.

The planks I get lately are usually 1 x 8". Sometimes I'm forced to settle for 1 x 4" planks. I simply edge glue the 1 x 4" planks, and make either a 1 x 8" plank. or three together and make a 1 x 12" plank. Hot melt could be used here also. I think this new CA glue would be perfect.

Another tip.
When cutting strips, and you are down to the last say 3", place another plank on the strongback, next to it, this supports the saw base, and keeps your saw from tipping side to side.

I use a caliper to measure the distance for the fence/blade gap. Accuracy counts here !

When I'm cutting strips. The blade of the Skilsaw, is exposed, you want to respect that! I have a 5 gal bucket, that I rest my saw in, when not cutting strips. This protects the blade, and I don't have to bend over to pick it up !

My fences start out 3/4" x 3/4" Aluminum Angle. I trim one side down to 5/8", in case I cut some thinner planks.
Image

The best of luck !

Jim
Last edited by Jim Dodd on Sun Jun 07, 2020 3:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!
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Jim Dodd
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Re: Bead and cove video

Post by Jim Dodd »

pfunkmke wrote: Fri Jun 05, 2020 10:28 am Hi Jim,
New to the community doing a lot of browsing/research for first boat (built a few cedar strip soap box derby cars 30 years ago as a kid).
Question is this: I'm pretty sure of the answer but confirming/pointing out that if piece goes between bit and fence, feed is from opposite direction correct? Between bit and fence left to right, normal operation right to left.
Secondary question: both cove and bead this way will ensure all stock is same width, eliminating need to plane raw material?
Thanks in advance!
Correct ! Some will tell you this is unsafe.
But it's not true.
I wouldn't recommend this with thicker hardwoods, but works great with cedar strips !

The main thing is to have a Three point Feather system.
One featherboard, Before the bit, holding the strip against the fence, one After the strip passes the bit, and One on top holding th strip against the Table, as it passes the bit.
I hope that pic tells the story !

No need for infeed or outfeed tables ! A Simple roller stand works best, in my experience, Again I hope the pics help !

Image
Another set up I used at the Nokomis Wood shop, for their Raffle canoe.
Image

The best of Luck !
Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!
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