Hand beveling

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Francis
Posts: 17
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2014 3:03 pm

Hand beveling

Post by Francis » Wed Dec 12, 2018 3:52 pm

I've just started to build my second canoe, and this time I want to make them without B&C so just beveling the strips. It's very difficult to find instructions how to do that. I hope here on the forum there are some builders who can help me in this process.

sedges
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Joined: Fri Jul 09, 2004 5:37 pm
Location: georgia

Re: Hand beveling

Post by sedges » Wed Dec 12, 2018 6:10 pm

Of course, my first comment would be WHY??? Its not a simple bevel, but will change over the length of the strip. My first three canoes were hand planed bevels back in the early 1980s before I discovered the bead and cove methods. I could do maybe three strips each side in a day. With B&C and can lay up a canoe in a couple of days with perfectly fitting strips.

That out of the way, here was my method.
1. After placing first strip, clamp the next one above it and tight to it with the side you want facing out against the molds.
2. Using some device, I used an old fashioned drafting divider, transfer the gap between strip faces at each mold to the top of the new strip.
3. Clamp strip on edge on a long bench and plane the bevel down to those marks.
4. test fit and make adjustments if necessary.

Be very careful not to take any of the out-facing edge. This is a very delicate operation. I used a finger plane kept very sharp. Make sure you understand the grain patterns. You may have to plane in different directions on different parts of the strip.

Francis
Posts: 17
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2014 3:03 pm

Re: Hand beveling

Post by Francis » Thu Dec 13, 2018 7:15 am

No B&C because this time I work with very thin strips, so the gaps are not that big, but I was wondering if I could avoid these small gaps to beveling the strips.

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Cruiser
Posts: 625
Joined: Sat Apr 27, 2013 10:21 am
Location: Bowmanville, Ontario

Re: Hand beveling

Post by Cruiser » Thu Dec 13, 2018 9:33 am

Hi Francis,

I think you want to check out this site:

https://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/guille ... eling_tool

Nick does incredible work and has a wealth of videos to help with kayak builders, including the neat bevel tool ..... you should be able to get some ideas and advice how to build without B&C there.

Brian

Francis
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Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2014 3:03 pm

Re: Hand beveling

Post by Francis » Thu Dec 13, 2018 3:43 pm

Brian, thanks for the link, looks doable with this tool!

sedges
Posts: 291
Joined: Fri Jul 09, 2004 5:37 pm
Location: georgia

Re: Hand beveling

Post by sedges » Thu Dec 13, 2018 10:10 pm

How thin? What is the reason for "very thin strips"? The thinner the strips get the more flexible your composite will be given the same fiberglass lay-up. The separation of the inner and outer glass layers by the strips creates the stiffness in the hull. If you go too thin with the wood core the lay-up will require extra glass and epoxy to make if stiff enough to not oil-can. Glass and epoxy weighs more than wood. Sort diminishing returns if you get too thin.

Also, too thin strips are going to get thinner when you scrape and sand.

Anyway, you gaps may be so small as to not matter. Meaning no beveling. Just a thought.

Francis
Posts: 17
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2014 3:03 pm

Re: Hand beveling

Post by Francis » Fri Dec 14, 2018 2:05 am

I use 3/16" strips because I build a racing canoe with a specific hull design, and with this thinner strips it's easier to take some 'strange' turns...

sedges
Posts: 291
Joined: Fri Jul 09, 2004 5:37 pm
Location: georgia

Re: Hand beveling

Post by sedges » Fri Dec 14, 2018 2:42 pm

OK. 3/16 is not real thin. Lots of folks have used them at that thickness. I have run bead and cove on 3/16 with out any issues. I was using real straight grained cedar at the time. That tool for making the bevel looks real cool. Wish I had that back in the 1980s!

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Jim Dodd
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Location: Iowa

Re: Hand beveling

Post by Jim Dodd » Fri Dec 14, 2018 3:11 pm

Francis
The problem of strip alignment, is the biggest reason, I go with B&C ! Those coves hold the beaded strip where it should be !

A Beveled strip must be carefully clamped, to maintain alignment, A glue joint, in a stressed area (the Bilge) will be your biggest challenge !
That's why they invented B&C !

Nick Schade, uses Hot melt to hold his strips to the forms. A risky thing, unless you really know what you are doing !

I agree with Cruiser, that Nick has some Great videos, and knows how to build ! !

Also have to agree with sedges ! Less wood, more glass, to maintain stiffness !

If your 3/16" strip is an 1/16" out of alignment, the joint between the two strips is only 1/8". Now add glue scraping, Fairing the hull, and sanding, what do you have left ?

I'm not saying don't do it ! Just be mindful of the pit falls !

Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!

Francis
Posts: 17
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2014 3:03 pm

Re: Hand beveling

Post by Francis » Sat Dec 22, 2018 2:39 am

Thanks for these wise words!

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