Plank Gluing

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Derrick Burry
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Joined: Sun Feb 27, 2005 7:54 pm
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ont

Plank Gluing

Post by Derrick Burry »

What is the most common type of glue used for gluing the planks? I have been wondering whether I should use epoxy resin thickened with fillers or carpenters glue. What are the pros and cons to the different type of glues. I am attempting my first canoe which is a 16 ft Peterborough from a early 1990's ediition of Canoe Craft, which I assume that they now call that model the Canadien. I found a few errors in the dimmension when I made up the plans but got past that. Thanks
Derrick
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mtpocket
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Post by mtpocket »

Derrick,

Carpenters wood glue is perfectly fine for glueing the planks. If you use thickened epoxy, you will have to wear gloves during the whole construction. A respirator would be a great idea also. The carpenters wood glue is much easier to clean up when a little of it ends up on the face of the strips. Resin on the strip face will increase your frustration while faring and sanding your hull. I haven't heard of anyone using resin for glueing strips. I did use thickened epoxy for my stems. Several different types of wood glue have been mentioned in this forum. I used Tite Bond on my Redbird and had no problems with color differential. Some glues dry too dark or too light. Another thing to think about is open time. You want a glue that will allow you to fit the strip in place before the glue sets up. Once the strip is in place and seated properly, wipe of any excess glue, inside and out.

You can go to the top of the page and type in a search for glue and read what many others have said in the past. This is a helpful tool.
Good Luck
Derrick Burry
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Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ont

Post by Derrick Burry »

:smile
mtpocket

thanks for the reply. This sight was a blessing to find, very useful

Derrick
Derrick
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Doug
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Location: London, Ontario, Canada

Post by Doug »

I second mtpocket,

Another thing that you might want to look at when selecting a glue is;
-a gap filling type
-brownish in colour

I have used,
a Lee Valley glue, cabinet makers 2002,
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx ... ,110,42965
and Titebond 2
may try the new Titebond 3 on the next one.

All the best,
Doug
"Some people hear the song in the quiet mist of a cold morning..... But for other people the song is loudest in the evening when they are sitting in front of a tent, basking in the camp fire's warmth. This is when I hear it loudest ...." BM
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davidb54321
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Post by davidb54321 »

I am using Elmer's Yellow Carpenters glue, and lots of it. It cleans up well with a wet rag and is Cheap! It is also readily available at several local stores.
David Bartlett

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Denis
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Location: Lakefield, Ontario

type of glue

Post by Denis »

If you are using white cedar I would suggest use yellow carpenters glue. I used the brown lee valley glue on one kayak and the glue lines showed up very noticably. The brown glue might be fine with red cedar.

Denis
Shuswap Pat
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Location: Salmon Arm, BC.

Post by Shuswap Pat »

I use a urea formaldehyde glue called UF-109. It is a marine glue, that is a powder and a liquid you mix. It looks like carmel pudding,and sets up rock hard, so it sands very well. Gap filling properties are good too.
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Jim Dodd
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Post by Jim Dodd »

Yellow carpenters glue will show up as yellow under cured epoxy!
Go for the dark, or the water proof exterior. Elmer's
Don't use hide glue, or Elmers Pro Bond! Pro Bond is to hard to sand!
Jim D
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!
loneeagle15
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glue

Post by loneeagle15 »

I read a study in 1 of my woodworking mags and they found that elmers wood glue is the strongest wood glue on the market. the down side is it wont fill gaps. I gues they are common as I have not built my first canoe but am just gathering info before I start.
Randy
On the other side of every fear is FREEDOM
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KARKAUAI
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Post by KARKAUAI »

I used Titebond II, worked great, easy to use. The problem of squeeze-out is solved by Glen's idea of using a squeeze bottle sold by beauty salon suppliers (ie Sally's) which has a very small hole. Much easier than the syringe method I used on first canoe. Using bead & cove method, I found that a 1/16" bead of glue gave good coverage with minimal squeeze-out. I would NOT recommend using a wet rag to wipe up drips. It can thin the glue and make it soak into the wood. If it's not faired out with sanding, the wood won't absorb the epoxy and you'll have blotches of light color in your canoe. I'd use the minimal amt. of glue necessary to get a good bond, wait until the squeeze-out or drips start to set, then scrape them off.
A hui ho,
Kent
Woodbark
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Post by Woodbark »

KARKAUAI wrote:I used Titebond II, worked great, easy to use. The squeeze bottle Much easier than the syringe method I found that a 1/16" bead of glue gave good coverage with minimal squeeze-out. I would NOT recommend using a wet rag to wipe up drips. It can thin the glue and make it soak into the wood. If it's not faired out with sanding, the wood won't absorb the epoxy and you'll have blotches of light color in your canoe. I'd use the minimal amt. of glue necessary to get a good bond, wait until the squeeze-out or drips start to set, then scrape them off.
Thanks for this reply Kent, you answered my questions completely. I have a whole gallon of Titebond ll, bought it at a woodworking show but was not sure whether it's gapfilling properties was adequate for the application.
** IF AT FIRST YOU DON'T SUCCEED -- TRY DOING IT YOUR WAY **
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KARKAUAI
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Post by KARKAUAI »

Just do your best to get tight joints...i know you're going to do that anyway to minimize gap-filling later. Are you going to go stapleless? I think you'll have tighter joints if you do. Staples are faster, but you may not get the joints as tight unless you use a lot of clamps, too. I'm going to try the fishing line method on my next canoe...sounds like a fast and good method of stapleless construction.
A hui ho,
Kent
Woodbark
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Post by Woodbark »

KARKAUAI wrote:Just do your best to get tight joints...i know you're going to do that anyway to minimize gap-filling later. Are you going to go stapleless? I think you'll have tighter joints if you do. Staples are faster, but you may not get the joints as tight unless you use a lot of clamps, too. I'm going to try the fishing line method on my next canoe...sounds like a fast and good method of stapleless construction.
KENT, an essential part of my building fun is making tools to get better results, I'm quite sure I will be developing some clamps if not, trying to improve on some of the already existing homebuilts. Have'nt given much thought to stapleless but we'll see when I get to that point. I will be milling my own strips, mostly white cedar, just wish had some warm weather to get going.
** IF AT FIRST YOU DON'T SUCCEED -- TRY DOING IT YOUR WAY **
GEORGE.
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