16' 0" Prospector
- John Caldeira
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Wed Aug 11, 2004 8:40 pm
- Location: Dallas, Texas
- Contact:
Glen
I'm flattered that you'd consider building something similar to the accent stripe on my Prospector. You might do even better by checking out some of the nice designs from these old canoe catalogs:
http://www.wcha.org/catalogs/old-town/d ... index.html
John
http://www.wcha.org/catalogs/old-town/d ... index.html
John
- John Caldeira
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Wed Aug 11, 2004 8:40 pm
- Location: Dallas, Texas
- Contact:
Better Links
Actually, these are better links
http://www.wcha.org/catalogs/
http://www.wcha.org/catalogs/old-town/d ... mbnal.html
(Click image for a better view)
John
http://www.wcha.org/catalogs/
http://www.wcha.org/catalogs/old-town/d ... mbnal.html
(Click image for a better view)
John
- Glen Smith
- Posts: 3719
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:08 am
- Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada
- John Caldeira
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Wed Aug 11, 2004 8:40 pm
- Location: Dallas, Texas
- Contact:
Prospector Canoe update
My Prospector 16 construction is nearing completion. I invite everyone to view some recent photos of the project:
http://www.outdoorplace.org/paddling/Pr ... ector2.htm
Sincerely,
John
http://www.outdoorplace.org/paddling/Pr ... ector2.htm
Sincerely,
John
-
- Posts: 6
- Joined: Tue Sep 27, 2005 8:49 pm
- Location: Peachtree City, GA 30269
Just beginning my 16' Prospector
Hi
I have just begun working on a 16' Prospector - in fact I just glued the first strip on last night. I think this forum will turn out to be a life saver many times along the way to finishing this canoe.
I am very impressed with the pictures from David and John. You guys are true artists.
I was interested by the comment about blending the outer stem - although that's still a ways down the road for me - I would appreciate any words of wisdom. My woodworking skills are average but hopefully will improve.
Thanks
Dave
I have just begun working on a 16' Prospector - in fact I just glued the first strip on last night. I think this forum will turn out to be a life saver many times along the way to finishing this canoe.
I am very impressed with the pictures from David and John. You guys are true artists.
I was interested by the comment about blending the outer stem - although that's still a ways down the road for me - I would appreciate any words of wisdom. My woodworking skills are average but hopefully will improve.
Thanks
Dave
Three coats of epoksy finnished
Sprouce for hull, alder and aspen in stripe, birch in stems
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GeirB
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GeirB
Home page: http://www.kanokajakksiden.info
- davidb54321
- Posts: 214
- Joined: Fri Jan 28, 2005 7:05 pm
- Location: Presque Isle, Maine
- Contact:
Very nice looking boat, Geir!
David Bartlett
"I don't fully understand everything I know!"
http://photobucket.com/albums/b81/davidb54321/
"I don't fully understand everything I know!"
http://photobucket.com/albums/b81/davidb54321/
Thanks, here is a pic of what is going to be decks.
I think the wood is called goatwillow. The white stripes are aspen.
GeirB
I think the wood is called goatwillow. The white stripes are aspen.
GeirB
Home page: http://www.kanokajakksiden.info
I am starting out and looking for some advice
Hi there, I just got a Prospector 16' set of plans for my birthday, something I have been hopeing to build for years. I am finally at a point and in a space that I am going to give it a try.
My question today (I am sure the first of several if the form members don't mind) is about building the strong back.
The step by step guide that came with the plans has good instructions and measurements for building a strongback for Bob's Special. I am wondering can I use the same measurements for the Prospector? It seems unlikely but I can't find any other instructions in the kit that seem to relate to the Prospector.
Thanks in advance.
Ted the New Guy
My question today (I am sure the first of several if the form members don't mind) is about building the strong back.
The step by step guide that came with the plans has good instructions and measurements for building a strongback for Bob's Special. I am wondering can I use the same measurements for the Prospector? It seems unlikely but I can't find any other instructions in the kit that seem to relate to the Prospector.
Thanks in advance.
Ted the New Guy
- Glen Smith
- Posts: 3719
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:08 am
- Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada
Welcome aboard, NewGuy. Now that you have broken the ice, you are no longer a new guy.
A 14' strongback for a 16 foot canoe works out fine since you won't have too much overhang at the ends and you will be able to freely work on the stems without rapping your knuckles on the strongback. In general, a strongback that is 12 to 24 inches shorter than the canoe works very well.
Do you not have the book "CanoeCraft"? The answers to most building questions are covered in that book and of course the rest are here.
If they haven't revised the booklet that comes with the plans then I suggest you modify two measurements: the gables are shown as being 8" X 10" (8 pieces) and 8" X 8" (3 pieces). Change these to 8" X 8" (8 pieces) and 8" X 6.5" (3 pieces). This will allow the tabletop to overhang a bit more on each side providing enough room for clamps when you install the station mold blocks or for any other clamping purposes that might arise.
A 14' strongback for a 16 foot canoe works out fine since you won't have too much overhang at the ends and you will be able to freely work on the stems without rapping your knuckles on the strongback. In general, a strongback that is 12 to 24 inches shorter than the canoe works very well.
Do you not have the book "CanoeCraft"? The answers to most building questions are covered in that book and of course the rest are here.
If they haven't revised the booklet that comes with the plans then I suggest you modify two measurements: the gables are shown as being 8" X 10" (8 pieces) and 8" X 8" (3 pieces). Change these to 8" X 8" (8 pieces) and 8" X 6.5" (3 pieces). This will allow the tabletop to overhang a bit more on each side providing enough room for clamps when you install the station mold blocks or for any other clamping purposes that might arise.
re strongback issue
Thanks Glen
I appreciate the encouragement and advice. I like the modifications to the strong back to provide a clamping surface, I will incorporte that.
I don't have the book yet, but it is on order I hope to see it soon.
Thanks again for the help. :)
Ted The formerly new guy
I appreciate the encouragement and advice. I like the modifications to the strong back to provide a clamping surface, I will incorporte that.
I don't have the book yet, but it is on order I hope to see it soon.
Thanks again for the help. :)
Ted The formerly new guy
- davidb54321
- Posts: 214
- Joined: Fri Jan 28, 2005 7:05 pm
- Location: Presque Isle, Maine
- Contact:
Ted,
Welcome. I recently finished my Prospector. You will really enjoy building this canoe. As Glen said, build your strongback a little shorter than the canoe. The Prospector has high stems which can cause some trouble later on in the building. I had to cut my strongback ends off during construction to make it easier.
Also, read the BOOK before you start cutting your forms, then read it again. In Canoecraft it mentions cutting your plywood sheets in half before cutting your molds so you can do two at a time because it is a symetrical hull. Don't do it! Some of the Prospectors station molds are taller than 24". (The book mentions this fact, but I didn't notice the first time I read it)
Have fun, ask lots of questions and post some pictures when you can.
Welcome. I recently finished my Prospector. You will really enjoy building this canoe. As Glen said, build your strongback a little shorter than the canoe. The Prospector has high stems which can cause some trouble later on in the building. I had to cut my strongback ends off during construction to make it easier.
Also, read the BOOK before you start cutting your forms, then read it again. In Canoecraft it mentions cutting your plywood sheets in half before cutting your molds so you can do two at a time because it is a symetrical hull. Don't do it! Some of the Prospectors station molds are taller than 24". (The book mentions this fact, but I didn't notice the first time I read it)
Have fun, ask lots of questions and post some pictures when you can.
David Bartlett
"I don't fully understand everything I know!"
http://photobucket.com/albums/b81/davidb54321/
"I don't fully understand everything I know!"
http://photobucket.com/albums/b81/davidb54321/
Prospector
Ted, take a look at David Bartlett's Prospector photo IM000994. This shows his stem mold sitting above the end of the strongback. Making your strongback at 14' will allow you to extend the end of your inner stem below the strongback top surface. ( See David's link to his fine photos above).
When you cut your stem mold, don't cut out the shear line notch at the stem but just cut a narrow cut to indicate the position of the shear. Doing this will allow you to use Glen's method of anchoring the inner stem to the stem mold with a single screw into the stem mold below the shear line. I think Glen has a picture somewhere.
Ed...
When you cut your stem mold, don't cut out the shear line notch at the stem but just cut a narrow cut to indicate the position of the shear. Doing this will allow you to use Glen's method of anchoring the inner stem to the stem mold with a single screw into the stem mold below the shear line. I think Glen has a picture somewhere.
Ed...
Ed Alger
- Glen Smith
- Posts: 3719
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:08 am
- Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada
overwhelmed
Thanks for all the great advice everyone.
The photos are all very inspiring. :)
I am looking forward to shareing mine once I get started.
The photos are all very inspiring. :)
I am looking forward to shareing mine once I get started.