Varnish...

[Andy Meyer]

Okay... I am slowly getting this varnish thing figured out, but still not 100%.
What is using a marine varnish such as Epifanes going to do for me that something a little less expensive (1/2 price) is not going to do? I am particularly comparing Epifanes Clear Gloss to Minwax / Helmsman Spar urethane.

Finish quality:
Yellowing:
Toughness:
Durability / longevity:
UV Protection:
Ease of application:

Any other varnishes I should be strongly considering?

Thanks,

Andy

[Glen Smith]

I can't speak for the Helmsman but I have used Epifanes on several boats and I found it very easy to apply using foam brushes following Ted's recommended method and thinned 10%. I have one kayak that has been sitting out in the sun for three years and the varnish still looks like new. It is still very glossy so it is reflecting the UV rays. I tried a cheaper spar varnish (Canadian product) but I find that it yellows quite quickly so it will probably need more frequent re-varnishing to optimize the UV protection.

[hoz as guest]

I would NOT use minwax helmsman on my boats. It is a big box, homeowner type product. Cannot recommend it for a marine environment.

Stick with Epifanes, Captains Spar or Petit brands. These are made for boats and have more UV inhibitors.

[Chris Ostlind]

Andy,

I have used Schooner varnish from Interlux for years now and have gotten consistent results on my boats and brightwork.

The take on Helmsman is essentially correct. Great product for home furniture that sees mild outdoor exposure or needs to have a notion of water resistance as in wooden patio furniture. The price is attractive and the product works well under those conditions.

I agree that most everything that calls itself Marine or Aircraft or Porsche has been price jacked through the roof, but in the case of true Marine quality varnish why mess with a known item.

The work you will do on successive applications of the lesser stuff will more than make up for the initial cost of the best varnish you can get your hands on. Go with Epiphanes, Petit, Interlux, etc. and learn to put it on successfully. Truly good varnish technique needs to be discovered as part of the process of producing your own amazing boat, just as quality woodwork, setup, material selection, etc.

And just to open the worm can... there are some amazing single and two part urethanes that are now available that are more than viable alternatives to traditional varnish for kayaks and canoes.

Chris

[Juneaudave]

The Wooden Canoe Heritage Association has a good article on varnish you might find interesting. Check this site http://www.wcha.org/wcj/v21_n2/varnish.html. Granted, this article is somewhat Interlux biased but you will get the idea.

I believe that Helmsman is polyurethane based spar varnish. Most builders use a tung oil based varnish with high UV blocker content.

[Bob/PA]

I am a big fan of Z-Spar Flagship, which claims to offer the highest level of UV protection. I used it on my last boat and had no problems. More to the point, I also used it on a strip-built mailbox exposed to full sun 24/7/365. It went more than three years before requiring an added coat and is now in the second summer since that application, still holding up well. It is slightly more expensive than the regular Z-Spar Captain's (about $3 more a quart) but is in the same price range as Epiphanes by my rough conversion from English measure to metric. Minwax products are ok for small diy projects, but I would not trust Helmsman for anything involving as much investment of time, treaure, and commitment as a canoe.

[Andy Meyer]

Alright....
You guys convinced me and my epifanes is on the way. They were EXTREMLY helful on the phone. I am getting my last levelling coats of epoxy on the exterior of my hull... Any special tricks to taking out the last little bits of high spots in the epoxy? A couple of spots where I had to work away runs are still showing a little evidence and I'd rather get the epoxy level than try to fight to get the varnish level on a rough surface. I am planning on wet 220 grit paper on a hard block.
I am not loking forward to smoothing the interior the way my exterior is... Who's looking in my canoe. (knowing me, I'll smooth it just the same though.)
If I want to get a satin finish (interior), can that be done by rubbing the varnish, or do I need a satin varnish to get a finish like that?
This place is an excellent resource and y'all are VERY helpful!

Thanks again!

Andy