Gorilla Glue

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Dean in Eureka, CA
Posts: 267
Joined: Mon May 10, 2004 10:23 am
Location: Eureka, CA

Gorilla Glue

Post by Dean in Eureka, CA »

Hey Folks,
My neighbor just gave me some Gorilla Glue to try out.
I was thinking about using it on my new sets of all ash stems, but....
I just built a new workbench and used it in the project. It sure foams up after it is clamped in place and is quite messy.

These new stems are all ash, inners too, that rolling bevel is going to be fun!
I had to do the stems over because I'm going to be putting a sail rig on this project and need very strong stems for the rudder gudgeons.
If anyone has used Gorilla Glue on their stems and liked the results, I would like to hear from you.
Everything will be OK[img::]http://www.mikenchell.com/forums/images ... uryi3b.gif[/img]

Dean in Eureka, CA
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Glen Smith
Posts: 3719
Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:08 am
Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada

gorilla glue

Post by Glen Smith »

Hey Dean,

No replies yet concerning the gorilla glue? Maybe it isn't a popular item. I used it once to glue up a few laminated paddles and it worked just fine. I also used it once to laminate some stems, very messy stuff to work with!

Gorilla glue is strong and waterproof and fills gaps. But the gap filler is just foamy stuff with no strength. I would stick to epoxy :lol: for stem laminating especially if you will be installing a rudder.
Guest

Post by Guest »

Thanks Glen,
It is foamy and messy too.
I'll either breakdown and get the epoxy resin stuff now or use palstic resin glue for my stems.
Hey, speaking of glue... I was just down at my building supply center and they have Titebond 3 (3 in roman numerals)
I've heard a lot of guys say to stay away from Titebond 2 because it stains the wood yellow and that Titebond (original) is O.K. to use for stripping.

This new Titebond 3 is light brown in color, is waterproof and says you have extended time before setup. I am assuming this is pretty new because I've never seen it before today. Have you seen or used Titebond 3 for stripping?
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Glen Smith
Posts: 3719
Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:08 am
Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada

Titebond III

Post by Glen Smith »

I have only seen it on the internet. It is usable at a lower temperature also which could be of interest to those who build in their unheated garage. I used Titebond II and didn't have any staining problem. I switched to ordinary yellow carpenter's glue because glue for the strips doesn't need to be waterproof and I found the Titebond took too long to set. Now I have a hot-air gun and could accelerate the drying considerably so I guess I will finally use that gallon of glue sitting on the shelf. You can get the low-down on Titebond from their website: http://www.franklinglue.com/download/pd ... mateTB.pdf. This is a PDF file but you can also go to: http://www.titebond.com/.
Boston Joe
Posts: 4
Joined: Mon May 10, 2004 9:52 am
Location: Boston, MA

Post by Boston Joe »

No glue is tougher than Gorilla, and no glue is tougher to work with than Gorilla.]. I make alot of outdoor mahogany furniture, the foaming fills in every surface, and follows every dowl. While no glue can ever be called " waterproof", I think this messy stuff is about a close as you can get. Wear gloves, and be quick to clean the excess, after it dries, when scraped, it will actually lift the grain, and staining over the excess shows up bigtime.
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