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- Patricks Dad
- Posts: 1476
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2004 1:11 pm
- Location: Warrenville, Illinois
Sorry, there are a couple pictures in Canoecraft that shows grain on a piece of lumber that makes this pretty clear (I'm at the office so can't cite page numbers but it's early in the book). In general, if the board you are ripping strips from is flat grain, you will end up with edge grain strips (and vise versa). If you select flat grain lumber, you will end up with edge grain strips.
- Patricks Dad
- Posts: 1476
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2004 1:11 pm
- Location: Warrenville, Illinois
Hi Will,
When contemplating the job of milling your own strips, think about keeping the strips in the same order as they come off the saw; as you move thruogh the various steps involved.
(I use my Table Saw to perform all of the steps involved in producing 1/4 x 3/4 x whatever strips because of the improved accuracy over a hand held router.)
I use black electrician's tape to keep the 'boards' together and I pick my strips in pairs...since the two facing surfaces are mirror images they create a perfectly matched 'port' and 'starbord' pair. Keep the grain of the boards heading in the same direction and you should end up with a hull whose halves match in color, and whose grain travels in the same direction around the hull...clockwise or counter-clockwise. I find hand planes to be wonderful for shaping the outside of the hull when all the grain goes in the same direction.
When contemplating the job of milling your own strips, think about keeping the strips in the same order as they come off the saw; as you move thruogh the various steps involved.
(I use my Table Saw to perform all of the steps involved in producing 1/4 x 3/4 x whatever strips because of the improved accuracy over a hand held router.)
I use black electrician's tape to keep the 'boards' together and I pick my strips in pairs...since the two facing surfaces are mirror images they create a perfectly matched 'port' and 'starbord' pair. Keep the grain of the boards heading in the same direction and you should end up with a hull whose halves match in color, and whose grain travels in the same direction around the hull...clockwise or counter-clockwise. I find hand planes to be wonderful for shaping the outside of the hull when all the grain goes in the same direction.
Sparky
"Those who the gods wish to destroy
they first make angry"
"Those who the gods wish to destroy
they first make angry"
Hi Will,
Actually, I keep the entire 1x8 in order throughout the milling process. This can get a little fussy, but I think the results are worth it. I use 3 wing cutters on my table saw to shape the bead and cove...another operation where grain direction is a critical factor.
Good Luck with whatever project you choose
Actually, I keep the entire 1x8 in order throughout the milling process. This can get a little fussy, but I think the results are worth it. I use 3 wing cutters on my table saw to shape the bead and cove...another operation where grain direction is a critical factor.
Good Luck with whatever project you choose
Sparky
"Those who the gods wish to destroy
they first make angry"
"Those who the gods wish to destroy
they first make angry"
Hi Will,
If you're going to have the local saw mill do the 1x6's, ask them for flat sawn boards. If you look at the end grain of the board, the annual rings should be running parallel with the face of the board. This way when you re-saw the strips they will end up edge sawn.
The strips will be in their most stable form this way,
As far as "How Much" ...In theory a 1x6x17' yield 24 1/4"x1"x17' strips, but the reality of the situation is maybe 15 or 16 strips. Here you need to have your design picked out and mold patterns lofted to full size, or the actual mold, in order to measure the hull from the shear line to the center line of the midship mold. Take this number in inches and multiply by 2. (for both halves) Divide by the exposed width of one strip and this will tell you how many strips necessary to cover the hull. For example: 48 inches from shear to center line; times 2 = 96; / .75 (3/4" exposed width of strip) = 128 strips.
Note: a 1" strip will have an exposed width of 3/4". you lose width with the bead and cove joint.
Sorry, didn't mean to be so long-winded.
If you're going to have the local saw mill do the 1x6's, ask them for flat sawn boards. If you look at the end grain of the board, the annual rings should be running parallel with the face of the board. This way when you re-saw the strips they will end up edge sawn.
The strips will be in their most stable form this way,
As far as "How Much" ...In theory a 1x6x17' yield 24 1/4"x1"x17' strips, but the reality of the situation is maybe 15 or 16 strips. Here you need to have your design picked out and mold patterns lofted to full size, or the actual mold, in order to measure the hull from the shear line to the center line of the midship mold. Take this number in inches and multiply by 2. (for both halves) Divide by the exposed width of one strip and this will tell you how many strips necessary to cover the hull. For example: 48 inches from shear to center line; times 2 = 96; / .75 (3/4" exposed width of strip) = 128 strips.
Note: a 1" strip will have an exposed width of 3/4". you lose width with the bead and cove joint.
Sorry, didn't mean to be so long-winded.
Sparky
"Those who the gods wish to destroy
they first make angry"
"Those who the gods wish to destroy
they first make angry"
- Patricks Dad
- Posts: 1476
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2004 1:11 pm
- Location: Warrenville, Illinois
Got the plans today!! And got all the pieces cut out for the Strongback, now just have to put that together. One question, what do you guys use to trace the station molds off the plans? I could go to the local blue print shop and have full size photocopies done, make 7 of them then just cut them out?? Is that accurate enough.
Thanks
Will
Thanks
Will
- Glen Smith
- Posts: 3719
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