Gunwale prep

[MACK]

I am using scuppered inwales on my canoe and was reading an internet site that recommended “When you epoxy the blocks to the base strip, it is a good idea to presoak the strip with unthickened epoxy. Wipe off the excess after about ten minutes, then glue the blocks on with thickened epoxy.” This is the first time I’ve heard about epoxying the gunwales, is this a good idea? Should I seal all the trim works with epoxy or will varnishing them be enough?
Thanks Guys,
Mack

[ealger]

Hello Mack.
I believe what you are refering to is the method to build a scuppered inwale by fitting blocks of wood to a "base" strip. John Michne has a fine page explaining this:
http://michneboat.com/Gunwales.htm

The process of "primeing" the blocks is to ensure that the joint is not starved of epoxy. The blocks can be attached with carpenter glue but epoxy is prefered.

As far as sealing the completed inwale, you'll find several methods including oil, epoxy, and varnish or combinatins of these.

I like to cut my scuppers with a router but that doesn't provide the contrast that John demonstrates. In any event, the inside of the scupper can be painted with a couple of coats of epoxy and let cure before attaching to the hull.

Some builders prefer to just use oil and reseal every year.

[Adamv]

Hi Mack,

I epoxied mine directly onto the hull and was quite happy with the results. This may seem obvious, but make sure that if you do, you wipe off any and all excess epoxy, as it will be hard to scrape off once it is cured.

http://www.avoisin.com/album/canoe/slid ... 20294.html

http://www.avoisin.com/album/canoe/slid ... 20298.html

I then oiled the top and sides of the gunnels and varnished the bottoms. I really like the look and ease of maintenance of the oil. Also, I would recommend varnishing the inside of the scuppers before installation.

Adam

[dmeenkster]

I am building my first canoe and am having a lot of problems with tear out while routing the scuppers. I am gluing the torn peices back together right now but I don't know if I will be able to salvage the inwale or if I have to start over. I practiced on a peice of pine to get the depth to where I wanted it, and had no trouble, but the maple I am using tears out almost the instant the router hits the wood. If all else fails, I'll have to rip the entire peice and use the block technique. Any hints? The wood tears even if I make multiple cuts to get the depth.

[Glen Smith]

If you have the equipment available, you could use a tablesaw with a dodo blade to cut out the scuppers.

[willo]

I use a drill-press witha 1 1/4 " forstner ( I have no clue if that is spelt right ) bit. This method works very well , have never damaged any inwhales
willo

[AkDan]

I also used a forstner bit, but I did my inner gunnels in 2 pieces, one in ash one in cedar like John Michne's site. I didnt go dark though, opting to stay for a lighter cedar color. But I'm also building a solo canoe and sitting on the floor, not hanging a seat. There is no reason you couldnt use this system ash on ash, or ash on some other hardwood as an accent.

John shows using a 3/8 forstner bit, I opted for a 1/2". Cut a strip of ash 3/8 by the length of the board by it's thickness, being you're going to trim down a bit, I left mine a full 3/4". Cut off 3 1/2" strips using the forstner in a drill press and a feather board to keep things tight to a fence. Use a stop, I used a board, John used a peg. Cut away, easy simple and effective.

Glue it up and be done with with it, no tear out, easy, simple and clean!

I set my scupper blocks close to one edge, but not quite over hanging, glued them on with epoxy. Cleaned it up with a table saw. Then cut the other side to fit the scupper blocks. Really super easy.

[dmeenkster]

I was using a straight router bit on a small router table, I think the problem was the opening for the bit was too wide, so I am going to try again with a sacrificial fence. If that does not help, I'll try the block method with a fostner bit.

[Patricks Dad]

I used a sacraficial fence on my gunwales. I started with a piece of maple to test with and had miserable results. It splintered very easily. Once I switched to the real think (cherry) it went very smoothly. If I recall, you are using maple... A sacraficial fence might help but I'd advise that you use one of the other above proposed approaches.

[dmeenkster]

I managed to get through the the process of carving the scuppers. If I had to do it again, I would definately not use maple. I had to proceed very slowly taking off a very small amount of wood at a time, and still had some small peices tear out. Nothing that I wasn't able to fix, but still very frustrating.
Now I have begun rough sanding the gunwalles and the fiberglass that comes up to the top of the gunwalles seems to have a pronounced edge on it. Does this disappear with fine sanding or is there a trick to get rid of it?
Would painting a thin layer of epoxy over the top help? Am I worrying over nothing?

[Patricks Dad]

The rough edge will smooth out when you fine sand. A coat of epoxy over the entire joint (hull edge and gunwale) will seal it all. Varnish over that will keep it looking new.