fishing line method

[Rick in Pender Harbour]

Hi
I use 20 lb test monofilament, from Canadian Tire, I like the flat reels rather than the bulk ones as they are easier to hold on to. If you have a problem with butterfingers, you can put an elastic band on the reel so that you don't have to chase to roll across the garage when you drop it... The advantage is it's much faster than most of the stapleless methods, except for the hot melt methods, and you are working with regular wood glue.
rgds

Rick

[MrDave]

There's an article on this subject in the current Wooden Boat Magazine that might be of interest.

Dave

[roger bebee]

Just thought I'd give a bit of a update on my progress with the fishing line . It seems to be going pretty good but a couple of things that I have noticed from my limited experiance . On one section the planks buckeled on me and I did not notice until the glue was dry so I'll have to live with that ,it just pulled off the mold about 1/8 of a inche . I guess I was pulling the line to tight . I switched to 12 pound test , just because I had it , and it seems plenty strong enough on the sides anyway . AT times I find the fishing line a little hard on the fingers , probably just because I'm soft . Glen your stripe holders and hair dye bottle for aplying the glue work great . MrDave I read the articale in wooden boat magazine and got the idea of putting 1 inche nails every 1 inche in a line about 1 inche from the edge of the station molds rather then drilling all those holes ,seems to work pretty good to hold the planks in . I'll have to post some pictures when I figure out how
roger

[Snowman]

I am not a fish-liner, but I wanted to provide my comments on the cove up/down question that has gone around many times in different threads. I am building cove up this time, using an approach like Glen has shown in this thread. Wow... It is so easy to control the amount of glue applied giving little/no squeeze out and virtually no clean up. The glue application is fast and easy, and it is nice to apply a holding force anywhere without having to be delicate with the cove edges. Once you figure out the ballet required for the strip install and holding force (in my case clamps/jigs), it is quick and easy.


Snowman

[Glen Smith]

I am building cove up this time, using an approach like Glen has shown in this thread.

Ummm, don't you mean "bead up"? That is the method I use.

[Snowman]

:embarassed Yup, bead up... :embarassed

[schappy]

Steve Chapman from Sunset Wooden Boats. I developed the fishing line process back in 2003 and first used it on a resotule. I had an article published in May/June issue of Wooden Boat Magazine. I have been teaching this technique at Lee Valley Tools in London for the last 3 years with Great response from my students. The Fishing line method works well for me, try it. I think it will work for you too.
Keep on Paddling, Steve

[jpowers123]

It looks like when using the fishing line method everyone is leaving the fihing line in place and moving forward with the next piece. Doesn't that leave a void on each and every strip the width of the fishing line? Does that pose any problem? Is any particular type of glue preferred for this method?
I have been working on my Prospector project and am now ready to start stripping. Horray!! It has been a long journey up to this point and I have been thinking it would be nice to avoid the staples.
Thanks for the help.

[podunk]

I used 15 lb test and quit a few screws on each form. Came out okay but you need to watch between forms as I kept the tension too tight and got some waves between forms at the bilge area. I actually pulled the strips in toward the centerline. All In all I would say is its the way to do it, no staple holes makes a much better look and I was able to put on 6-8 strips on each side a night easy. Good luck

P.S. the string pulls out easily and you'll never know it was there