I want to build a flat bottom canoe, but I have heard that you can not build one in cedar strip. Because there is no strength in the bottom. I have plans too use formed ribs to help support the bottom.
I was hoping that I could get some input or tips on this subject.
Flat bottom canoe
Several questions!
Are you building on a strongback with regular forms ?
What design ?
How wide ?
Will you be glassing the hull ?
Now some thoughts.
Cut your strips thicker, this will of course make things heavier, but will stiffen the hull.
Use S-cloth instead of regular E-cloth, it's supposed to be 20% stronger.
Most of the strengh from a stripper comes from the fiberglass.
Extra layers of cloth will also help.
Good luck
Jim
Are you building on a strongback with regular forms ?
What design ?
How wide ?
Will you be glassing the hull ?
Now some thoughts.
Cut your strips thicker, this will of course make things heavier, but will stiffen the hull.
Use S-cloth instead of regular E-cloth, it's supposed to be 20% stronger.
Most of the strengh from a stripper comes from the fiberglass.
Extra layers of cloth will also help.
Good luck
Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!
-
canoeblderinmt
- Posts: 415
- Joined: Sat Jul 03, 2004 12:04 pm
- Location: Butte, MT
My first canoe was a White Guide in 18 1/2 foot length, similar beam but no tumblehome. The bottom was flat. I used 6 oz cloth, with a football on the outside for reenforcement. The bottom oil-canned a little. My strips may have been a little thinner than 1/4".
One thing you might consider is putting a pattern on the bottom of the boat. If the pattern strips ran on a bias or across the hull width-wise, it might stiffen the hull without ribs and be pretty as well.
Greg
One thing you might consider is putting a pattern on the bottom of the boat. If the pattern strips ran on a bias or across the hull width-wise, it might stiffen the hull without ribs and be pretty as well.
Greg
" Choose to chance the rapids, Dare to dance the tide..."
If it were me, I'd go with.
Thicker strips in the foatball area.
An extra layer of coth, maybe S-glass. Outside, and maybe inside.
The ribs are a cool idea, but would take a lot of extra time.
Good luck
Jim
PS. A very good friend of mine, who was really proud of how light his canoes were, ended up duck taping the bottom of his canoe in the BWCA to make it back out.
The hull split down the middle .
.
Moral to story if you make a canoe light, don't skimp on the bottom !
Thicker strips in the foatball area.
An extra layer of coth, maybe S-glass. Outside, and maybe inside.
The ribs are a cool idea, but would take a lot of extra time.
Good luck
Jim
PS. A very good friend of mine, who was really proud of how light his canoes were, ended up duck taping the bottom of his canoe in the BWCA to make it back out.
The hull split down the middle .
.
Moral to story if you make a canoe light, don't skimp on the bottom !
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!
My first canoe was 13' long, 36" beam with plumb sides--no tumblehome, and a large, completely flat bottom. I glassed it with two layers 6 oz. e-glass on the outside and one layer inside. The wood was 1/4" cedar strips. I built it this way to test the stiffness and strength of the relatively large flat surfaces because I'd had no prior experience with strip building and no idea of its stength. It turns out I needn't have been concerned. The bottom and sides are stiff and there's been no oil canning of the bottom. It's going on 11 years old now and none the worse for wear. Based on this, I wouldn't expect problems using conventional strip construction for the canoe you describe, though a longer canoe may be more vulnerable to bottom flex. Extra glass on the bottom adds some abrasion protection but may not add much stiffness if the inside isn't also doubled.
Charles Campbell