New Build Pics of Huron Cruiser

Davesbuild · Post by **Davesbuild** » Mon Sep 01, 2008 7:23 pm

Hello All.

As suggested, I understand that new build pics are welcomed!

First-time builder - long-time paddler - I am building a Huron Cruiser, stretched to 16'2", northern white cedar hull and cherry trimmings.

Just began the build after lots of reading and preparation work.

Here are a few pics to date...any feedback (constructive) is always welcomed on this end!

(please let me know if there are any problems with the link)
http://home.cogeco.ca/~hotrods/Canoebuild/

Thanks,
Davesbuild

Rick · Post by **Rick** » Tue Sep 02, 2008 7:30 am

Looks good, Dave. The darker heartwood and lighter sapwood in the white cedar strips will be great in combination with the cherrywood trim!

Davesbuild · Post by **Davesbuild** » Tue Sep 02, 2008 7:28 pm

Thanks Rick.

I am adding pics to that page as I move along in the process. I am at the bilge line now and finding the strips getting a little trickier to get to behave.... but so far - so good... all-in-all, havin' a good time seeing it start to take shape.

Thanks again,
Dave

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Tue Sep 02, 2008 7:34 pm

Looking good Dave. When the strips start to become difficult as when they are almost horizontal on the bottom but still vertical at the stems, I use a hot-air gun to heat them up and pre-twist them to fit.

Davesbuild · Post by **Davesbuild** » Tue Sep 02, 2008 7:55 pm

Thanks Glen.

Didn't think of that actually... I did use the heat gun and spray bottle to bend the stems - after a short pre-soak in the bathtub...

No need to wet the strips though? I will give it a try when things get a little tougher..

I am really amazed at how quickly things start to take shape. I can already see canoe #2 on the horizon!

Thanks Glen,
Dave

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Tue Sep 02, 2008 8:18 pm

If you are using air-dried cedar it will bend quite easily with the hot-air gun. If it has been kiln-dried, you might have to spray some water on the bend area or wrap a damp rag around the strip. You said you are using Northern White Cedar and this is quite often just air-dried.

Canoe #2 already? What will it be? How about a kayak instead???

Davesbuild · Post by **Davesbuild** » Tue Sep 02, 2008 8:36 pm

Thanks Glen - the damp rag / cloth sounds good....I'll try it.

The white cedar was cut at a historic water-powered saw mill and air dried only...

Not really into kayaks, but have paddled a canoe since I was very young (about 6-years old), now in my mid 40's. When I started this venture (planning months ago), I had always intended on building more than one craft. Why go to all of the trouble of custom making all of the jigs / strongback etc, and only make one - just doesn't make sense to me...not sure what to build next - I'm not there yet! I have two hotrods - one finished - one not - and a partially built canoe ..and lots of tools to go with all of it....runnin' out of room here!!! but I NEED another canoe....

Dave

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Tue Sep 02, 2008 9:01 pm

runnin' out of room here!!! but I NEED another canoe

I really know what you mean!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Davesbuild · Post by **Davesbuild** » Wed Sep 10, 2008 5:40 pm

I've updated my build page with latest pics of Huron Cruiser... one more sanding and ready for glass!

Just wetted hull to raise grain...

http://home.cogeco.ca/~hotrods/Canoebuild/

Davesbuild

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Wed Sep 10, 2008 5:56 pm

The canoe is advancing at a good pace! I have an unrelated question for you: What does your avatar represent? I can't make it out.

Davesbuild · Post by **Davesbuild** » Wed Sep 10, 2008 6:14 pm

Hi Glen,

The avatar are 3 of my spokeshaves in my woodworking tool chest drawer.....if you can't make it out, maybe I need to change it!

Progressing well... lots of work - and dust! Having a friend help me with the glassing this wekend.

Question...should I put two layers of glass on the football? or is one sufficient??

Thanxs,
Dave

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Wed Sep 10, 2008 6:22 pm

Perhaps the image needs a bit more lighting, or I need new glasses. Now that you mention it, I can figure out one spokeshave.

If you intend to paddle in rocky areas where you have to land on a rocky shore then a second layer of cloth on the football would add a bit more abrasion resistance. If your landing spots are mostly sand or grass or you step out of the canoe while it is still floating, the extra layer isn't really necessary. Some builders launch their canoe or kayak without varnish and paddle it for a while (up to one season) to see if any areas in particular on the hull get abused. If there are evident signs of damage, a second layer would be in order. If there are only a few minor scratches, sand and varnish and it is ready to go for next season. The boat should be stored out of the elements when not in use to diminish the impact of U.V. rays on the epoxy.

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Wed Sep 10, 2008 6:30 pm

This looks more like a spokeshave to my old eyes.

Davesbuild · Post by **Davesbuild** » Wed Sep 10, 2008 6:36 pm

Glasses.. I need to take mine OFF to see the screen! :shocked

So it IS ok to use for a season with one coat and see how it goes..if covering the football area with a secons coat I probably need to be roughen with a coarse sanding in that area I assume??..... am I understanding you correctly? I had originally thought that the first layer would have to be in the football area and the second over the entire craft - but not so?

I am still a bit perplexed as to how I am going to "fair" the interior?? I used the spokeshaves extensively to finish the entire outside of the hull. and stems .. spokeshaves don't work to well on inside curves though...

I had also considered a shoe keel, but I have changed my mind on that...

might even get a paddle in before winter freeze up!

Thanxs,
Dave

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Wed Sep 10, 2008 6:52 pm

You would have to do the fill coats also. If you later decide to add another layer of cloth, sand to obtain a smooth surface and apply the cloth, wet-out and apply fill coats. It will add a bit more weight than doing two layers before doing any fill coats though.

If the extra cloth is beneath the main cloth, you risk sanding through the main cloth along the double thickness line. This would disrupt the structural integrity of the main layer of cloth, not a good thing. By applying the extra layer over the main layer, you can easily scrape and sand to feather in the second layer without cutting through the main cloth.

Edited: For fairing the interior there are a variety of methods that work to some extent. One is to use a R.O.S. with a soft backing pad and 80 grit paper with the R.O.S. tipped up but you have to keep it in constant movement without applying pressure. It is a bit tricky and it won't get into the ends of the hull.

Another is to wrap a piece of sandpaper around a plastic bottle filled with water or use a piece of "pool noodle" with sand paper wrapped around or glued on it.

A decent tool for inner hull fairing is the Proprep scraper with the crescent blade.

I purchased mine from: http://www.newfound.com/tools.htm

Of course, no matter what tool is used for the fairing, you will still have to do some hand sanding.

The Bear Mountain Boat Shop

New Build Pics of Huron Cruiser

New Build Pics of Huron Cruiser

Updated Pics of Huron Cruiser