glue for stripping

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Dennis of Douglas
Posts: 29
Joined: Wed Nov 19, 2008 9:21 am
Location: Douglas New Brunswick

glue for stripping

Post by Dennis of Douglas »

Good day all, I wrote some time ago to say that I am building a 30' wide stern canoe. Well a friend and I have been planing 20-22' cedar boards down to 7/8". We will rip the boards on a table saw to 5//16"(strong) and then plane the strips down to about 5/32". We will next bead and cove all of the strips with 1/4" bits from L.V. I wish that we could just bead the strips and then cove them as we nee them, unfortunately we just don't have the room to do so.

My question today that I am sure you have the answers is, what is te best glue to use for the stripping, in terms of set-up strength, gaap filling properties and water resistance. I read a previous thread that suggested to use ordinary yellow cabinet glue.

What would you suggest?

Thanks, Dennis of Douglas
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Patricks Dad
Posts: 1476
Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2004 1:11 pm
Location: Warrenville, Illinois

Post by Patricks Dad »

If you're going to coat with fiberglass and epoxy, you don't need to worry about water resistance. Gap filling? Don't put any gaps in your strips and you won't have to worry about gap filling either. Strive for a good tight fit on every strip. With a very long canoe such as you are building, look for a glue that has some decent open time so it doesn't get gooey before you clamp it in place. I use Titebond II wood glue with good results but you might experiment with a couple different glues to find something that works well for you and your situation. Focus some attention on clean-up of each joint as you go (don't forget the inside). I use a damp (not wet) cloth to clean up each joint inside and out as I go. If you don't see any squeeze out, you may not have enough glue. If you see lots (runs), you're using too much. Trial and error you way to a good balance so your cleanup is minimal but non-existant.

good luck!
Randy Pfeifer
(847) 341-0618
Randy.Pfeifer1@gmail.com
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Jim Dodd
Posts: 1359
Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2006 11:08 pm
Location: Iowa

Post by Jim Dodd »

Hi Dennis

Lately I've been using Elmers Wood Glue "GEL" it's Exterior. I know you don't need exterior, but it can't hurt !

Discard the cap and pick up one of those fine tipped caps from a hobby shop.
The gel stays where you put it better than regular glues.
It's a very light brown, and won't show up as yellow under the epoxy !
It sands like regular glue, not like the real hard glues !

The glue comes in a blue and orange bottle with a tapered top.

I'm a minimalist when it comes to applying glue!
I hate to sand and scrape !
The seal coat of epoxy will fill any small gaps, and be as or stronger than any other glue.

Last tip ! I use a spring clamp to squeeze the bottle, saves a lot on these old hands !

Good luck !

Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!
Paddle on the Crow
Posts: 22
Joined: Sun Jan 25, 2009 3:26 pm
Location: Minnesota

Post by Paddle on the Crow »

I used regular white Elmers school glue on my Prospector. Worked just fine.

POTC
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