Kayak shear strip joint (without shear clamp)

[Jeff in Farmington, MI]

I have finally milled my bead and cove strips for building my One Ocean Expedition Sport kayak, and I am ready to start stripping the hull. However, I keep changing my mind about the joint at the shear line. The Expedition Sport design does not use a shear clamp, so I know that great care must be taken to make this joint appear seamless.

When building without a shear clamp, some sources recommend a rolling bevel joint between the hull and deck strips. Others recommend that the first hull strip begin with a coved edge (facing down on the mold) for easier alignment with a beaded strip on the edge of the deck. I would like to have a bead-to-cove joint between the hull and deck, but I am concerned that the coved edge will become damaged during the build.

I would like to hear from some of you who have built without a shear clamp. How did your your joint work out? What are your recommendations. Regardless of how you stripped along the shearline, how did you fair the surface as you transition between the hull and deck, given that the hull is glassed before the deck is stripped?

Thanks, Jeff

[Gary]

Jeff,

I milled two strips with a double cove, carefully stored in the rafters of my shop until the hull was complete. Then I used them as the first deck strips, this kept the fragile coves protected as long as possible and I could work cove up on both the hull and deck.
I used the spacer strips as Vaclav suggested and had no trouble joining hull and deck. I was truly surprised at how easy the two halves fit together. I expected a lot of pushing, clamping, swearing, etc. The join came together with hand pressure and strapping tape.
I feathered the hull's and deck's glass edge as I faired the seam after gluing and taping the inside seam, then I used leftover 6 oz cloth cut in bias strips approximately 4" wide to glass the seam. It was very hot the day I glassed the seam " prewetting " the tape with sweat will leave spots that don't wet out well with epoxy.

Good Luck,
Gary

[Jeff in Farmington, MI]

That's an excellent idea, Gary. If I go with the bead and cove shear joint, I will definitely start the deck with the double-cove strip.
I was also concerned about fairing the exterior of the seam because the sanding might expose the glass fibers. Did you find this to be an issue?

Jeff

[Gary]

No problems,and I did sand into the edges of the glass.
I was at the point that I just wanted to paddle, I stopped worrying about perfection. Everything worked out just fine. Will the finish stand up to close up inspection? NO.
Does it look good on top of my truck, on the water...does it put a big smile on my face every time I paddle it ? Absolutely!
In other words it is not a furniture grade finish, it is a boat. After I got the first scratch I was very glad I didn't waste excessive time on trying to obtain perfection.