Prospector Outer Stem Shape

Friesen 5 · Post by **Friesen 5** » Thu Nov 12, 2009 6:52 pm

I've researched Canoecraft and many web sites to find this information. It's hard to find a photo or a definitive answer. I'm not sure how to shape the outer stem at the bottom to flow with the rest of the canoe. Also. I'm concerned that it will be difficult to get the fiberglass to bond in the concave between the cedar of the canoe and the stem. It is a tapered stem. I intend to use brass bands for protection; hence the square edge.

Please study the following photos and offer suggestions. Sorry about the poor quality of the photos. It's hard to get a good depth of field with point and shoot electronic cameras.

Thanks,
Mervin Friesen

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Rick · Post by **Rick** » Fri Nov 13, 2009 9:47 am

IIRC, keels are glued on after the fiberglass sheathing is in place.

Most modern canoe designers are agreed that keels aren't necessary and are more trouble than they're worth... you could simply sand it off and have a better-performing Prospector.

Manufactured canoes that do have keels these days usually have them to help stiffen the hull because the hull is too thin otherwise... strippers will be stiff enough on their own because of the wood/glass sandwich construction.

Rod Tait · Post by **Rod Tait** » Fri Nov 13, 2009 10:51 am

You will not get fiberglass to completey wrap over top of that keel in one piece. As stated in last post, the keel should be attached after glassing the hull.

Friesen 5 · Post by **Friesen 5** » Fri Nov 13, 2009 11:06 am

Thank you for your replies. I see that I made an error in my title and message. I've edited and corrected it. My question has to do with the outer stem; not keel. The pictures are of the stem, not the keel. Please take another look and offer your suggestions. Thanks!

Post by **Patricks Dad** » Fri Nov 13, 2009 11:32 am

The outer stem should be laying directly on (and glued to) the inner stem and laying in a mortise cut into the hull (where the strips on the hull butt into the outer stem. It should be faired into to the hull at all places so it doesn't stick out from the hull. WIth that, there is no concave angles to deal with and your glassing concern goes away. hope this helps.

Big Woody · Post by **Big Woody** » Fri Nov 13, 2009 7:24 pm

Patrick's Dad is right. You have to shave the outer stem off until it is fair with the hull form.
Mine was square at first too.

Then I planed it and block sanded it smooth with the rest of the surface, and then rounded the edge.

On top my stem tapers into a dagger point before it finally blends into the canoe. My outer stem was longer than my inner stem.

I see from your site that you also built a Sonex. I went to Oshkosh intending to buy plans when it first came out, but the cockpit turned out to be too short for me. They had claimed it would fit a 6' 6" pilot, and I'm only 6' 1", but when they dropped the canopy closed it knocked me in the head really good. I didn't like the idea of flying leaned over the whole time. When I brought this to their attention they claimed I was a genetic freak with an overly long torso for my height, and that a "normal" 6' 6" person should fit just fine. I thought about modifying the canopy to get more headroom, but finally decided just to keep my money instead.

Friesen 5 · Post by **Friesen 5** » Sat Nov 14, 2009 10:05 pm

Thanks for your replies. Thanks also for the photos. Patrick's Dad - Yes, I did taper the stem, mortised the cedar down to the inner stem, and epoxied it together. Big Woodie - thanks for the photos, which help to visualize what I must do. I will plane them down and fair them to the shape of the canoe. I just didn't think that what I'd done was quite right. It would have been hard to do a nice fiberglass job the way it was. Unfortunately, specific details on this step are difficult to find. Thanks!

Big Woodie - I fit into my Sonex well. I'm 5' 11". I did make it with the lowered seat option, but then built it up with 2 " of foam. I do not bump the canopy even with my headset on, but it does happen in the passenger seat. There are some scratches in the canopy on the passenger side. Had a great 1/2 hour flight today in perfectly calm air.

Big Woody · Post by **Big Woody** » Tue Nov 17, 2009 5:32 pm

The Sonex sounds like a great plane. I don't think they had a lowered seat option when I first looked at getting plans. If you can build an airplane, a wooden canoe should be easier, cheaper, and more forgiving of variations in technique.

And once you're done with the canoe, you'll have the skills and tools to build yourself a nice set of floats for your Sonex.