Staple-less system question (Big2 Canoes)

[Barefoot Hiker]

After seeing so many clever ways people affix their strips without staples I was floored by the simple beauty of the system devised by Bob Arthur and Brian Heaslip at Big2 Canoes. I have chosen my plan just an hour ago so my experience with stripping a boat is practically less than zero - BUT I have a question about this system that may just be the product of my ignorance so bear with me...

The FIRST strip one attaches kind of sets the style so to speak for the sheer line, am I right? I mean I've seen canoes where that first strip wraps all the way up to the peak at each stem, and I've seen canoes where that first strip is level to the waterline. And I think I've even seen canoes where that first strip may have done something in between.

If so, then my question about the staple-less system relates to the case where the first strip is more or less level to the waterline. If each new strip is threaded through the gap at the top of the straps (boat bottom) and slid down, wouldn't you need to insert the strips that cover the sheer from below (boat top)? There doesn't seem to be any gap in the strap to accommodate a new strip from that direction.

Again, please forgive me if I'm overlooking the obvious. I do think it's a clever way to lay multiple strips at one time while simultaneously holding pressure against the stations and against the previous strip.

[Moonman]

From looking at the method, yes you will still have to use another method to fill in any required strips at the bow and stern, above the sheer. These will be shorter strips as towards the centre of the boat the strips will be right on the sheer. You can just use Ted's clamping system or even packing tape and spring clamps between the stations.

This is a nice approach but, personally, I'd rather save the 375.00. You'll need it for some good varnish and epoxy. Still, if you do make the purchase, you can use it on subsequent builds.

moonman.

[Adamv]

I'm with Moonman on the saving the money bit. His method looks great, and I'm not saying I won't borrow a few ideas from it on my next build; however, I used the stapleless method as per CanoeCraft on my last build and was very satisfied with it. It gave lots of control and was very simple to use (and cheap!). However, I do like the idea of running a few straps (say at three or four stations) around the hull to hold the strips in place while fitting them in.

As per the first strip. I made mine parallel to the waterline rather than have it follow the sheer line. It worked ok, but it was a bit tedious fitting all the little strips in at the end (between the first strip and the decks). The next time I will just make the first strip follow the sheer line. I've seen canoes like this, and think they look just as good.

Cheers,
Adam

[Barefoot Hiker]

...personally, I'd rather save the 375.00. ...
moonman.

As would I! It just looks like a novel solution that could be easily replicated on my own at a fraction of the cost. But the engineer in me is always nagging... "But what about this? What about that?"

[doe4rae]

just my 2 cents, but after looking at a LOT of different ways to do without staples, I settled quite comfortably on a combination of "L" brackets at the forms and 3M strapping tape anywhere else. I leave the 1/4" dowels right in the center of the tape and can re-use them sometimes 3 or 4 times before getting a new strip of tape. I really thought, being my first build and all, that I was going to resort to staples sooner or later as planking progressed around to the bottom of the hull, but that tape did a fantastic job and I think all three rolls only cost me about $5! I didn't use a single staple. (I did use a few finishing nails on the first strip and if I could have avoided that I would have.)

[BearLeeAlive]

The one issue I see with this system, is that you would need a shop length of nearly twice that of the build in order to slide strips in. This would not be so good in a regular garage, especially if building in winter.

I saw it a while back, and I must say that there is some good ingenuity there.

[Moonman]

One point on the curve of the first strip. I think the advise in Canoecraft looks best - let the strip take its own natural curve. On a lot of modern hulls, this is so close to the sheer line that you can just follow the sheer and you are good to go. On traditional hulls, with a fair bit of recurve to the sheer at bow and stern, I personally don't think think it looks as nice to have that sheer strip dip up to follow that recurve -even if the strip can take that added stress at that point. I think the eye picks that up. Again, from all the boats I've seen the best looking in my opinion is to just let the sheer strip take its own curve and then fill in from there.

[vann evans]

Whether you follow the sheer line with your first strip or let the strip follow it's natural curve will not make a lot of difference in a "modern" design like the Freedom. I chose the freedom for it's simple. modern look with no recurve at the bow or stern. I tacked the first strip in place on the stations and followed the sheer line. I put the strips on with the bead up so that I could use the "L" clamping system and not damage the more fragile cove. it worked fine. I also used "c" clamps between stations to hold the strips in alignment. I found this system to be simple and effective. I used no staples and the holes made in the first strip were covered by the gunwales.

One additional thing that I did was to make a "clamping ledge" on each station. As I cut out the stations, there was a scrap piece of plywood left over with the same curve as the station. I trimmed this to about 1" wide and glues/screwed it to the edge of the station. It produced an exact curve of the station and produced a good 3/4" edge to hold clamps. You can see pictures of this arrangement at this website:

http://picasaweb.google.com/cboaternc/F ... StripCanoe#

Hope this helps.
Vann Evans

[switters]

great build sequence