Keel strip with bead on both ends

[Tom in MN]

I learned a new method for closing the center of the canoe during stripping. I have always used the herringbone method alternating strips. I am currently building the 20' White Guide from Gilpatricks book (actually 15' 3" because I am building the square stern version). I started building cove up as usual with the idea that I would close the bottom the same way. When I got up over the stems, I decided to lay down two strips with only beads toward the outside of the canoe, gluing the flat edges together over the center marks on the forms. Then, I ran the rest of the strips straight down the center line out to the edges of the football. This method actually works pretty good and better than the herringbone method, because the strips are run straight vs. trying to bend them around the outside edge of the football. I am also stripping a Wee Lassie with a friend of mine and we did the same on this canoe, which worked out really well because the last time I built a Wee Lassie, getting the strips tight on the outside of the football was a challenge on that short of a canoe. After trying and liking this method, I do not think i will use the herringbone approach in the future. I am sold on the "double beaded keel strip". Also, getting the strips tight by pressing on the bead rather than cove is nice. I might try and figure out a way to start bead up and finish with the keel strip method. I think I would need a double coved strip to make the last transition over the stem form.

[pumpkin]

I would be interested in seeing some pictures. I am about ready to start gluing strips and a different approach is interesting. Might change my approach. Is this similar to what David Hazen does?

Matthew in ND

[David James]

Hey Tom,
I was having difficulty with those strips while closing up my Rob Roy, another short canoe. I wound up closing the football by planking that area parallel to the keel line, but didn't think of starting at the keel and working my way back down. Sounds like you have a good method. Not sure what you mean by beads toward the outside of the canoe.
Sounds like a sort of "sacrificial" keel that will be planed down flush to the other strips later...?
How 'bout a picture? (save yourself the thousand words....!)

Dave

[David James]

I think I just figured out what you're up to Tom. By "beads toward the outside" you mean towards the gunels right? And the flat sides (no bead or cove) go together right at the centerline with a bevel if needed. Makes sense.

Dave

[Tom in MN]

Dave, you got it. Two strips with flat edges placed together over the center line on the forms, with a bead going toward both gunnels. Stripping cove up, as you come up over the stems, you have two coves facing each other. Taper the two keel strips to a point, round them off to make a bead and slide it into the coves. It was easier on the square stern, because the strips just hung off the transom on the other end until I cut them. For a double ender, you might want to put a joint in the middle so you can press them into place at the stems and cut them flush to each other. If I had to do it again, I would make a couple of double beaded strips during the beading process and have them ready. I used the strips that I had left one flat edge on for closing the canoe because my shaper was put away and no room to run it with the canoe in the shop to make more beaded strips. After the keel strip was in, I would lay a strip on top and mark the taper. Cut it with my band saw, check it for fit, round off the corners to form a bead and put it in place. I put a seam somewhere along the canoe and fit the ends of the two strips separately.. It is very hard to cut the taper on each and have it fit perfectly. Easier to fit them both, make a mark and cut them with the joint over a form. On my next canoe, I will start bead up, then have a double coved strip to make the transition over the stem, then the keel strip and work center out from there.
I am not sure a picture will show this now that the boat is fully close in but I'll try and take one.

[pumpkin]

Thanks for clarifying this Dave. I understand and don’t need a picture from Tom.

Matthew

[David James]

It is very hard to cut the taper on each and have it fit perfectly.

Tom and Matthew, when I got to the top of my stems and had to start fitting each strip with a double bevel at each end (with a flat face - no bead or cove) I used a homemade jig to cut it. I was able to cut these strips perfectly every time. I used a sanding disc on the table saw and could take off just the slightest amount until the strip snapped in for a good fit. What makes the jig worth building is the ability to acurately cut the same double bevel EVERY time. Then you simply take off more material until you have a good fit. That's hard for me to do by hand (shakey hands) so I needed a better way.
Tell me how to post a picture of it (it's been awhile...) and I'll do so if you're interested.

Dave

[Tom in MN]

I think that is a great idea David. I cut them on the bandsaw and about 8 out of 10 fit good the first try, some I have to recut. With flat edge strips, dropping them in with both ends tapered would be much easier. Doing it with bead and cove is a little more challenging. I definately need a sanding disc for my table saw. I see that sears has them for about $17 plus sandpaper.

[David James]

Mine came from Sears. Very handy, with a coarse grit on one side (maybe 60 grit) and a finer grit on the other (100?). I got 'em to finish my forms but have used them for lots of other jobs.

Dave

[pumpkin]

I was thinking that using a taper jig on my table saw with the sanding disk would make tuning the tapers easy. My taper jig has only been used for making table legs up to this point but I can adjust it for almost any angle, Dave, do you use your jig fixed or sliding? I can clamp mine down to use it fixed.

Tom, definitely invest in a disk. I love mine. It makes sanding everything easy. If you make paddles, it is great for shaping blades and grips. I use 80 and 120 grit. Lee Valley carries lots of different sizes and grits. I find 60 way too aggressive. If I need to remove that much wood I go to my jointer, planer, hand planes.

Matthew

[David James]

Matthew, I don't actually own a taper jig. For my strips I designed and built a jig with adjustments for both angles. Took me about an hour to build - saved me countless hours and lots of Redwood strips...

Tell me how to post a picture and I'll show it to you.

Dave

[Glen Smith]

To post pictures: http://www.bearmountainboats.com/phpbb2 ... php?t=1150