Ok, stupid question number one...

[Journeyman]

Hi there

I haven't even got my plans yet but am reading through CanoeCraft for the millionth time in preparation. (can't wait!). Anyway, I can't seem to figure out how the shear line gets transfered to the station moulds. Is this marked off from the plans to the moulds? Will I see this when I get my plans? Of am I being thick and missing it in the book??

Thanks

[Patricks Dad]

The sheer line points are clearly shown on the plans. It will be obvious.

A couple suggestions:

1. Cut your molds an inch or so longer than the sheer line marks (your first strip will be easier to attach.
2. Cut a notch into the station molds at the sheer line (rather than just a pencil mark). These notches will be easier to see and use for transfering the sheer line to the hull when you are ready to cut sheer line after the hull is built.

[Ben]

1. Cut your molds an inch or so longer than the sheer line marks (your first strip will be easier to attach.
2. Cut a notch into the station molds at the sheer line (rather than just a pencil mark). These notches will be easier to see and use for transfering the sheer line to the hull when you are ready to cut sheer line after the hull is built.

I disagree with number 1. I say cut them 2" longer. If you are building stapleless, you can make "L" brackets to hold the first strip in place, and screw these bottom brackets onto the forms. As you strip towards the sheer line and are clamping the brackets to the forms, an extra inch really helps on the last couple of strips.

[Patricks Dad]

No argument with 2" longer (qualifies as "an inch or so" and more is better).

Also, consider simply stapling the first strip onto the forms (at least in the amidship stations where the first strip will land on the sheer line). If you are building stapleless and you plan where scuppers will land on your inwales, the gunwales will cover the staple holes in those areas. Othere places where the first strip might be above the sheer line, don't staple, clamp as Ben suggests (in which case you have "extra" space below the strip anyway). Even with the shorter strips you may use to fill-in on the ends of the canoe to reach the sheer line, the last strip can be stapled if it will be under the gunwales (even less concern out there as you will likely have no scuppers there).

[David James]

I would be careful with cutting those notches. Cut them as shown on the plans for the bow and stern molds: the "open" part of the notch should be below the shear line (towards the floor) with the top edge of the notch representing the actual shear line.
Have fun!

Dave

[Journeyman]

Thanks to all who responded. Good information. :smile

Is that a Freedom 17 Patrick's Dad? That is what I have chosen to build for my first one.
Cheers for now.

[Patricks Dad]

The picture in my avatar is a Freedom 15.