Welcome to the new Bear Mountain Builders Forum - an interactive internet service we provide to encourage communication between canoe and kayak builders
I'm not sure if I've ever posted here or not, although I've been checking in occasionally for some years. Anyway, I have a couple little web sites on paddle making that seem to generate a lot of interest, judging from the email I receive. I just updated one of them, and it occurred to me to post a notice here. Hope it's helpful to somebody!
Nice documentation of the bird's mouth paddle (shafts) that you make. I had started to make a similar construction paddle when I was creatign a hollow mast. I never did finish the paddles as I ended up moving twice since then. My days of moving have now come to an end (for several years) and I have to set up my shop (again!!!) to start (finish) a bunch of projects. I can't blame all of the slow progress on the constant moving. I have been fortunate enough to get my fair share of paddling, fishing, and sailing in as well (I went fishing with my daughter tonight). There are a few other projects on the go - I hope to get the deck finished before it gets cold - probably one of my last outdoors projects before it gets cold.
I will post some pictures of the finished paddles that should come out of my makeshift shop this winter.
I'm just about done with a paddle using the birds mouth approach. It was lots of fun. I'll probably make a few more over the winter. Thanks again for the great site.
I have been meaning to make a couple myself but no time. Any ideas on configuring a straight shaft? As Kurt mentions, it would be nice to use this method for a nice light straight shaft. I think you could do something along the lines of how the handle is affixed - starting the throat taper on the blade part as opposed to the shaft, along the lines of a traditional build, then cutting it off for the join, inserting the plug/biscuit and glue up....
If I were to build a straight paddle, I think I woulld taper the shaft strips toward the blade as well as the grip (leaving it larger in the middle for the lower hand). I would then split the end of the shaft in the middle and have it "straddle" the blade. I would then add a pair of wedges of cedar to cap the remaing end of the shaft and feather it out to the blade sides.
Yeah that makes sense, I wonder though about how thin you could get the taper since the strips are 1/4"? Although with the cedar wedges going up inside you would maintain strength there. Also, the whole thing covered in light cloth and epoxy would add more than enough strength as well. Good thing cedar is so easy to carve. I might have to try this over the winter and see what can be done.
