Strips are pulling away from the forms

[WMegl]

I'm laying my 18th strip on my Redbird ( I'm about 2/3 rd's of the way through the sharp radius at the bottom of the hull) and I'm noticing that the glued hull already installed is pulling away from the forms. I'm using the stapleless method, so when I install the wedge to hold the new strip against the old for a tight glue joint, I'm wondering if I'm being too aggressive with the pressure. The jigs at the bottom (gunwhale) are holding the hull to the forms, but as I progress up the hull, it is pulling away from the forms. The largest gap is about 1/4 in., but most are in the 1/16- 1/8 in. range. And, the gaps are symmetrical. The same from port to starboard, and the same from fore to aft. I have put together a system to hold the hull to the forms using ratcheting straps, but it will be a huge hassle installing about 8-10 straps after I glue a strip and install all the jigs and wedges. Is this gap normal, or should I go ahead and apply the straps after I glue a strip on to hold the entire hull to the forms?

Also, I am having trouble forming the inside stems with my spokeshave. It jumps as I pull it across the ash inner stem giving me a rough finish and the process shakes the whole boat. I have sharpened the blade, but to no avail. Any tips?

I would include pictures, but the last time I tried, they were rejected as being too large a file. If anyone has suggestions on how to attach digital picture files, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks.

[BearLeeAlive]

I used straps, one on each form, and it worked out fine. I would install usually 3 strips, tighten the straps, then use wedges to push the strips together. After 30 minutes or so, the glue would be set up, and I could repeat on the other side.

In this photo, the scrap strips were put in after tightening the straps just to give more tension, and a bit of pressure against the form in a select place.

[Rabbit]

Also, I am having trouble forming the inside stems with my spokeshave. It jumps as I pull it across the ash inner stem giving me a rough finish and the process shakes the whole boat. I have sharpened the blade, but to no avail. Any tips?

myself as well as others on the forum have found using a saw rasp good for shaping the inner stem easier (do a forum search for saw rasp and you will see what i mean). while many here use a softwood for the inner stem, i, like you used hardwood. i found that the spokeshave became a bit unwieldy. this was also compounded by not having taken care to keep the grain on the laminates all the same direction. i could tweak the bevel much more easily with the saw rasp. the main thing is to make sure that you take material off flat and don't rock the tool as you use it.

[Patricks Dad]

I think the most effective way to shape the inner stem is use of the "Michne stick" It will quickly shape the stem and ensure that the bevel angle is perfect (more effectively than a short rasp).

Read about it on John Michne's website here:
http://www.michneboat.com/Shaping%20the%20Stems.htm

[WMegl]

All: Thanks for your replies. I am a the point where I am installing one strip at a time because the twist at the stem is easier to clamp onto the inner stem when there is only one strip. I found it difficult to twist and hold down three strips. Nevertheless, I have set up the straps as you have shown and it sounds like you think it's necessary, so I will use the straps.

Thanks for the tips on forming the inner stems. I used ash because I liked the idea of using a hardwood for a structural member of the boat. I didn't pay attention to grain orientation which I think would have helped me. I will look up the saw rasp and a "Michne stick".

Again, thanks.

[Cruiser]

Big fan of the Michne stick, choose the best sand paper you can find and it will last the whole build. Useful for shaping and also for any where you want to sand a flat area such as the sheer cut and even the football keel cut in place of a plane or rasp.

You will probably make a few flavours of sticks once you use one, I have half a dozen .... simple and effective.



Brian

[BearLeeAlive]

I used a spokeshave for the most part with no problem, you just have to cut in the right direction. I did use a rasp in a couple places. I do really like the look of this Michne Stick, it does look like a great solution.

[Cruiser]

They don't replace the spoke shave, rasp or plane, they just add another tool to the shop ... albeit a very inexpensive, useful tool. For shaping the inner stems, which are typically softwood, I would suggest they are probably more friendly to new builders than any other tool for the job. I use 60 grit on mine and once you use them in one place, you will keep finding uses for them for many of the jobs ... like fitting the outer stem, shaping and fitting the final strips ...
Anyway, like I said I am a big fan of stuff that works well, and the idea that you make them yourself for next to nothing is just a bonus to a great idea.



Brian