Titebond 3
- Dean in Eureka, CA
- Posts: 267
- Joined: Mon May 10, 2004 10:23 am
- Location: Eureka, CA
Titebond 3
Has anyone used the new Titebond 3 for stripping yet?
Everything will be OK[img::]http://www.mikenchell.com/forums/images ... uryi3b.gif[/img]
Dean in Eureka, CA
Dean in Eureka, CA
I haven't used it yet and likely won't. My understanding is that Titebond III is very similar to Titebond Original except it has a much longer open time for complicated assemblies and it can be used at colder temps, something like 40 degrees compared to 50 for Titebond. I prefer Titebond or Elmer's Probond for the shorter open time.
- mrcanoehead
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2014 2:13 pm
- Location: Saint-Lazare, Quebec, CANADA
Re: Titebond 3
I just bought plans for a 17' Nomad and I was going to be using Tightbond III (because I happen to have over a galloon of it). Does anyone think that its a bad idea?
P.S. Sorry for resurrecting an old post but I don't want to dual thread
P.S. Sorry for resurrecting an old post but I don't want to dual thread
Chuck
"Attitude + Power = Performance"
"Attitude + Power = Performance"
- Patricks Dad
- Posts: 1476
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2004 1:11 pm
- Location: Warrenville, Illinois
Re: Titebond 3
If you have it, use it. Personally, I don't like how it sands once dry (still too rubbery for my tastes). Note, its water proof properties won't be of value (the strips will be encased with epoxy and fiberglass). Try to glue up a few strips with it and see if you like (or not) the color.
I prefer Titebond I or good old Elmers wood glue.
I prefer Titebond I or good old Elmers wood glue.
Re: Titebond 3
i used both titebond i and titebond iii on my build. i knew that titebond i would be more than adequate for the job, it was more a case of colour. titebond i was a closer match to the paulownia, and titebond iii was a better match for the red cedar. i found that having the longer dry time could be usefull... it could also be a pain if you thought it had enough time to set for say scarf joints, and it turned out that it didn't.
Re: Titebond 3
My main concern about stripping glue is I DON'T use YELLOW wood glue.
My first canoe taught me that. I hand beveled the strips and used WAY to much glue! After sanding with poor equipment. I put on a seal coat of resin (polyester). All of a sudden I had ugly yellow streaks from the yellow glue.
I've used interior, and exterior glues, and can't tell a difference. I use exterior, just because it's an anal thing. For the cost of glue, it's minor compared to everything else that goes into a hull.
Don't try and fill gaps with glue. Any small gaps, epoxy will seep in, and you can't get a better bond than epoxy.
Good luck !
Jim
My first canoe taught me that. I hand beveled the strips and used WAY to much glue! After sanding with poor equipment. I put on a seal coat of resin (polyester). All of a sudden I had ugly yellow streaks from the yellow glue.
I've used interior, and exterior glues, and can't tell a difference. I use exterior, just because it's an anal thing. For the cost of glue, it's minor compared to everything else that goes into a hull.
Don't try and fill gaps with glue. Any small gaps, epoxy will seep in, and you can't get a better bond than epoxy.
Good luck !
Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!
- mrcanoehead
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2014 2:13 pm
- Location: Saint-Lazare, Quebec, CANADA
Re: Titebond 3
Well I guess Ill have to do some testing before I comit to the glue.
Thanks for the advice guys.
Thanks for the advice guys.
Chuck
"Attitude + Power = Performance"
"Attitude + Power = Performance"
- mrcanoehead
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2014 2:13 pm
- Location: Saint-Lazare, Quebec, CANADA
Re: Titebond 3
So I have run a bit of a test with the tight bond III and a few pieces of cedar I had laying around. I did leave it for about 48 hrs so I cant say much about how it cures in a couple of hours. I found that wiping any excess with a damp cloth leaves no noticible reside outside the joint and I had two joins one in light cedar and one in dark. Neither seemed to show the glue but I did not sand it or work the joint any. I then twisted the joint until failure. One seam broke at the glue line and the other the wood split adjacent to the glue but the glue did not fail this leaves me to believe that the strength of the glue and the wood are closely matched probably a good thing during flexing under load. I think I will try to find some Tight Bond I and see if I have a preference between the two.
FYI I found a link to a company called newfound boat works that claims to be using Tight Bond III on all their strippers.
FYI I found a link to a company called newfound boat works that claims to be using Tight Bond III on all their strippers.
Chuck
"Attitude + Power = Performance"
"Attitude + Power = Performance"
Re: Titebond 3
having used both of those titebonds in my build, and finding they both work well, the one crucial piece of advice i can pass on is to take the time to make sure that you wipe the excess glue off, particularly on the inside, and pay attention to the sides of the station moulds. both are a pain to sand or scrape. if i was to do it all over again i'd probably stick to the titebond i, simply because i didn't find for softwood there was any real advantage, and where i get my glue from, the price difference is obvious.
Re: Titebond 3
Sanding is never fun !
I cut, beaded and coved strips for a friend.
Set forms and helped start stripping. I told him to be minimal with the glue.
Came back after he was done stripping. I could see NO glue . I panicked and asked if he used any glue at all ? He said yes, but followed my advise!
That was the easiest canoe I ever helped sand !
I learned a valuable lesson !
My friend used a needle point tip on his glue bottle. His glue bead was the size of a pencil lead, or smaller.
The glue only needs to hold the strips together until you're done sanding. Epoxy will take over after that.
I'm sure there were spots that didn't get glue, but the seal coat of epoxy seeped into any small voids, and bonded everything.
Jim
I cut, beaded and coved strips for a friend.
Set forms and helped start stripping. I told him to be minimal with the glue.
Came back after he was done stripping. I could see NO glue . I panicked and asked if he used any glue at all ? He said yes, but followed my advise!
That was the easiest canoe I ever helped sand !
I learned a valuable lesson !
My friend used a needle point tip on his glue bottle. His glue bead was the size of a pencil lead, or smaller.
The glue only needs to hold the strips together until you're done sanding. Epoxy will take over after that.
I'm sure there were spots that didn't get glue, but the seal coat of epoxy seeped into any small voids, and bonded everything.
Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!
- mrcanoehead
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2014 2:13 pm
- Location: Saint-Lazare, Quebec, CANADA
Re: Titebond 3
I just couldn't help myself I went out and got some original tightbond and will do some further testing with that and TB III as soon I get the chance.
Perhaps I'm a little OCD
Perhaps I'm a little OCD
Chuck
"Attitude + Power = Performance"
"Attitude + Power = Performance"
Re: Titebond 3
I have been using T3 for my whole project and i am sold. I will never use yellow again. This stuff is strong and it definately has a longer working time. a friend used it to water proof his RC boat and the results were very positive. He brushed it on the entire hull and used about a half gallon on it. I like the strength and the colour is the best for all woods.
Re: Titebond 3
I used titebond 3 for my rice lake skiff due to working in cooler temps and it worked perfectly. I used a squeeze bottle to ensure a small bead and wiped up any runs with a damp cloth. I would deffinately use it again. That and I couldn't find any other titebond in my local area.
Re: Titebond 3
TB III is overkill and not necessary for Bead and Cove Stripping! Remember your creating a composite hull. when you encapsulate the wood with epoxy/glass the idea is to keep the water away from the wood. The stripping glue just needs to hold the strips together until the epoxy & glass work is complete. Just use enough glue to get the job done. A small bead a little over 1/16" in dia in the cove is about all you need. The hull's strength comes form the epoxy and glass, the wood is just a spacer. However, Western Red Cedar, Mahogony, White Cedar, etc makes for a good looking hull.
You can use Elmer's White Glue (as cheap as it gets) and obtain the same result. That being said Tightbond II is cheap enough (~ $ 20 USD a Gallon) and does a good job. It's color works with the cedar strips and when faring the hull does NOT make for problems.
Just my $ 0.02's worth.
phil w.
You can use Elmer's White Glue (as cheap as it gets) and obtain the same result. That being said Tightbond II is cheap enough (~ $ 20 USD a Gallon) and does a good job. It's color works with the cedar strips and when faring the hull does NOT make for problems.
Just my $ 0.02's worth.
phil w.
Re: Titebond 3
I'm going to use Titebond 3, just because it apparently works well at low temperatures, and I am going to be stripping through the winter in a semi-heated garage. I checked the specs a while ago, but I think it is rated for use down to 8 degrees celsius, which is great.
Last edited by Grumple on Tue Oct 07, 2014 8:33 am, edited 2 times in total.