Outer stem protector
Outer stem protector
First time kayak builder- very exciting! I've read about brass protectors for outer stems, but wondering if it's necessary. Appreciate any advice.
Re: Outer stem protector
Hi phindel,
I think a lot of people just add another layer (or more) of fiberglass for added protection.
If you search on the topic, you will find reference to people cutting strips of cloth on a bias (ie 45 degree angle to the cloth weave) so that it bends around the stem nicely when trying to get it to stick down.
I think a lot of people just add another layer (or more) of fiberglass for added protection.
If you search on the topic, you will find reference to people cutting strips of cloth on a bias (ie 45 degree angle to the cloth weave) so that it bends around the stem nicely when trying to get it to stick down.
Re: Outer stem protector
Thanks - good idea and a lot simpler. P.S. love your profile picture
Re: Outer stem protector
Hi Phindel,
I skipped putting either on my first boat, on the second I added the extra fiberglass.
I do mostly wilderness camping and regardless of how careful I have been my solo boats bow is getting beat up pretty good. This winter I will be adding fiberglass and a brass protector ... truth be told I am likely going to add a protector to both builds.
Since you are building a kayak, you have to think of the terrain you are planning to travel, and obviously, how you get in and out of the boat. If you can get in and out all the time, without having the kayak bow in towards shore (think dock landing), then it won't be banged up. If the nose gets anywhere near rocks/gravel on the shore you inevitably will graze, bump or hit them, at some point. If there is only epoxy and varnish between the wood and rock, well .... it won't last long. I would suggest that most of the damage will occur when you land and launch ... although there are a few of us who also play with rocks in low water, but I don't think you can protect against that.
The good news is that whatever you decide, it is not necessarily a permanent decision. I am ready to do the re-varnish, on my solo, required after a few years of service and adding glass and the brass protector will just be worked in the job.
So my advice is to think of where (terrain) you plan to go, how you use the boat and protect your boat accordingly.
Brian
I skipped putting either on my first boat, on the second I added the extra fiberglass.
I do mostly wilderness camping and regardless of how careful I have been my solo boats bow is getting beat up pretty good. This winter I will be adding fiberglass and a brass protector ... truth be told I am likely going to add a protector to both builds.
Since you are building a kayak, you have to think of the terrain you are planning to travel, and obviously, how you get in and out of the boat. If you can get in and out all the time, without having the kayak bow in towards shore (think dock landing), then it won't be banged up. If the nose gets anywhere near rocks/gravel on the shore you inevitably will graze, bump or hit them, at some point. If there is only epoxy and varnish between the wood and rock, well .... it won't last long. I would suggest that most of the damage will occur when you land and launch ... although there are a few of us who also play with rocks in low water, but I don't think you can protect against that.
The good news is that whatever you decide, it is not necessarily a permanent decision. I am ready to do the re-varnish, on my solo, required after a few years of service and adding glass and the brass protector will just be worked in the job.
So my advice is to think of where (terrain) you plan to go, how you use the boat and protect your boat accordingly.
Brian
Re: Outer stem protector
Thanks Brian
Will be entering and exiting from dock, so I think I'll just use glass and wait to add brass if needed later. Thanks for the wise advice.
Will be entering and exiting from dock, so I think I'll just use glass and wait to add brass if needed later. Thanks for the wise advice.
Re: Outer stem protector
Brass is overkill, but glass is a necessity, IMO. Docks aren't always available, and aren't always the easiest method to launch even if they are available.
On my Endeavour kayak, I wrapped the glass around the stem from each side by about 3", while glassing the hull. Then, when that was sufficiently cured, I added an additional bias-cut strip so that in the end there are 3 layers of 6oz glass over the stems. Bit of a challenge to get it all to lay flat during wetout, but not impossible. End product is tough as nails.
I paddle in areas where coming into contact with sharp-edged rocks is inevitable.
On my Endeavour kayak, I wrapped the glass around the stem from each side by about 3", while glassing the hull. Then, when that was sufficiently cured, I added an additional bias-cut strip so that in the end there are 3 layers of 6oz glass over the stems. Bit of a challenge to get it all to lay flat during wetout, but not impossible. End product is tough as nails.
I paddle in areas where coming into contact with sharp-edged rocks is inevitable.
- Patricks Dad
- Posts: 1476
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2004 1:11 pm
- Location: Warrenville, Illinois
Re: Outer stem protector
As you note, bias cut cloth is essential. But a trick to make it even easier is to stretch it length-wise just a bit as you lay it on and it will wrap itself right around the stem.Bit of a challenge to get it all to lay flat during wetout, but not impossible
Re: Outer stem protector
I think that this comes down to personal preference. You can't go wrong either way. I like the look of the brass...some people don't. No matter how careful you are, getting into a kayak is sometimes difficult and the stern hits the bottom of the lake. After a few years, take some steel wool or a file and it looks new again.
Re: Outer stem protector
You're right, Bellguy ... brass is a personal preference ... I meant as a protective layer in addition to glass.
In my case, only the third layer of glass was bias-cut ... with the extra length from glassing the sides, it falls wherever it falls, and that is the challenge I was referring to ... next time, I might just trim the sides shorter, and add 3 bias-cut layers over the stem ... more feathering that way, but probably easier in the end ... I like a very narrow stem, and am very pleased with the way the glassed stem looks and has held up to punishment.Patricks Dad wrote:As you note, bias cut cloth is essential. But a trick to make it even easier is to stretch it length-wise just a bit as you lay it on and it will wrap itself right around the stem.
Re: Outer stem protector
Can anyone advise on the method of putting on brass protector or give me a reference? I don't see it described in Ted Moore's Kayakcraft. Will likely start with extra glass as you all commented on.
Re: Outer stem protector
Brass bends nicely so you won't have a problem making the curve. Pre-drill your holes into the stem and put wax on the brass screws. Do not, under any circumstances, use anything but a screw driver to put the screws in...they are made of brass and are real soft. I pre threaded my holes with a small steel screw as well. Also, if you don't countersink them too much, you can file the screws flush with the brass band.
Re: Outer stem protector
BellGuy ... wouldn't you need a flat surface of some width, on the stem, to receive the brass strip? Which means the stem has to be a certain width, to accomodate that flat section. How do you deal with glass around those angular corners, or do you not bother to glass the flat? How "sharp" are your stems, when all is said and done? (mine are barely more than the diameter of a pencil, for comparison purposes).
Just curious.
Just curious.
Re: Outer stem protector
On both my canoe and kayak, I flattened the stems to 3/8" which is the width of the brass strip. I kept the edges sharp so they blend into the brass. I believe Canoecraft states that wrapping the glass around the stems isn't necessary so I didn't. The epoxy covers the flat and protects it. There is no right or wrong way to do your stems...just personal preference.