Great forum! In searching for a little more challenging woodworking project, I got "bit" by the canoe building bug. I have not finalized the choice of plan yet but I am not sure if that will have much bearing on my first question (which I did not find covered in the book). I am in Wisconsin and looking to machine my own planks (strips) for the boat. I have a well appointed woodworking shop and machining the strips should be within my ability and frankly, is just more satisfying from a "woodworking" standpoint.
Anyway, my question is about finding clear cedar in lengths long enough to make my canoe. I plan to make something in the 16' range (probably a Prospector) as there will be two paddlers most of the time. I know that finding cedar in >16' lengths will be even tougher, let alone clear. So my question is this. Is there anything wrong with having all those scarfs in the wood? I figure that most boards will have at least 1 to get the 17' length and many will have more than one scarf to get around the knots. Is this going to make headaches for me in the stripping process or will the scarfed strips work just as well as whole strips?
Thanks for your help in advance. I look forward to working with you all on this project.
Jason
First timer here with first question (of many I am sure)
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- Joined: Thu Dec 17, 2015 2:16 pm
Re: First timer here with first question (of many I am sure)
Welcome aboard Jason !
This IS a fine site.
Being from Wisconsin, there are several builders, that you might enlist to help with the glassing.
Glassing was my biggest fear on my first build. An experienced hand is great !
Back to your question. Search through Menards for cedar. Over the years, 80% of my cedar was from Menards. 1"x8"s and 1"x6"s, # 3 and better. Making your own strips is rewarding, as well as a huge cost savings ! There are suppliers that have longer cedar, but it's usually quite expensive.
I'm building a solo right now that is 16' 4". All my cedar stock is 16'. So, I did a lot of splicing. I do it right on the hull, in between the forms. I try and plan a splice where the strip doesn't have a lot of stress.
Splicing with strips that are beaded and coved are a lot easier.
Enjoy the experience !
There is a ton of great info here, as well as Ted's Canoe Craft !
Jim
This IS a fine site.
Being from Wisconsin, there are several builders, that you might enlist to help with the glassing.
Glassing was my biggest fear on my first build. An experienced hand is great !
Back to your question. Search through Menards for cedar. Over the years, 80% of my cedar was from Menards. 1"x8"s and 1"x6"s, # 3 and better. Making your own strips is rewarding, as well as a huge cost savings ! There are suppliers that have longer cedar, but it's usually quite expensive.
I'm building a solo right now that is 16' 4". All my cedar stock is 16'. So, I did a lot of splicing. I do it right on the hull, in between the forms. I try and plan a splice where the strip doesn't have a lot of stress.
Splicing with strips that are beaded and coved are a lot easier.
Enjoy the experience !
There is a ton of great info here, as well as Ted's Canoe Craft !
Jim
Keep your paddle wet and your seat dry!
time on the phone
http://www.realcedar.com/find-a-retailer/
Here is a start. Probably a business with "millwork" in the name might be more likely to have clear grade.
Start close to home and work your way out. If you are near Minneapolis or Chicago there are likely to be suppliers there. Almost every big city has a western red cedar specialist that with have clear stock and long lengths. Here in GA I can get clear stock up to 20' in 1x4 to 1x12.
Also, scarfing is fine. If you can find some nice 12' the scarfs won't be in the middle. It is possible to find nice 8-12 foot boards at Home Depot type places and you have some regional supply places like Menards as well. You have to pick through piles and visit often to find a few good boards. If you can find boards at these places your cost will be less.
Clear graded stock is going to run $7.00 a board foot or more. Clear gives you little waste and if you find 17' or 18' lengths you can skip the scarfing.
Here is a start. Probably a business with "millwork" in the name might be more likely to have clear grade.
Start close to home and work your way out. If you are near Minneapolis or Chicago there are likely to be suppliers there. Almost every big city has a western red cedar specialist that with have clear stock and long lengths. Here in GA I can get clear stock up to 20' in 1x4 to 1x12.
Also, scarfing is fine. If you can find some nice 12' the scarfs won't be in the middle. It is possible to find nice 8-12 foot boards at Home Depot type places and you have some regional supply places like Menards as well. You have to pick through piles and visit often to find a few good boards. If you can find boards at these places your cost will be less.
Clear graded stock is going to run $7.00 a board foot or more. Clear gives you little waste and if you find 17' or 18' lengths you can skip the scarfing.
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- Joined: Thu Dec 17, 2015 2:16 pm
Re: First timer here with first question (of many I am sure)
Thanks for the replies. I was planning to start with a few millwork locations that are local and then work my way out from there. First step is to decide on a plan, but I am getting anxious to start in on this bad boy. Have the shop all prepped and plan to start building the strongback when we get back from Christmas travels.
I am going to try and track the progress on a blog here as well.
I am going to try and track the progress on a blog here as well.
Re: First timer here with first question (of many I am sure)
Welcome to the forum.
I chose Northern White Cedar for my current build (Freedom 17) and getting lengths over 16' just didn't seem possible. I chose a selection of 8, 10 and 12s (2x6s) to stagger where all the skarfs would be.
I have done a few joints right on the forms and also skarfed individual strips ... I find it too fiddly, so I took a different approach for the strips. I skarfed the 2x6s to be 19', and then went ahead and made the strips from there. I did use epoxy for those joints, but it worked out really well, the strips are great and I think it will be easier to bookmatch all the strips, since the strips are already skarfed.
Just a thought.
Brian
I chose Northern White Cedar for my current build (Freedom 17) and getting lengths over 16' just didn't seem possible. I chose a selection of 8, 10 and 12s (2x6s) to stagger where all the skarfs would be.
I have done a few joints right on the forms and also skarfed individual strips ... I find it too fiddly, so I took a different approach for the strips. I skarfed the 2x6s to be 19', and then went ahead and made the strips from there. I did use epoxy for those joints, but it worked out really well, the strips are great and I think it will be easier to bookmatch all the strips, since the strips are already skarfed.
Just a thought.
Brian
- Patricks Dad
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- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2004 1:11 pm
- Location: Warrenville, Illinois
Re: First timer here with first question (of many I am sure)
Where in Wisconsin are you? There are a couple good lumber sources in Madison (McCormick and Brunsell).
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- Joined: Thu Dec 17, 2015 2:16 pm
Re: First timer here with first question (of many I am sure)
Hello PatricksDad
I am in Appleton, so running down to Madison to get lumber would not be a big deal. I am going to check around here first though to see if there is anything local. Valley Planing Mill is here in town and they might be able to get it for me.
I had not thought about those two sources but know of them. Thanks for the suggestion.
I am in Appleton, so running down to Madison to get lumber would not be a big deal. I am going to check around here first though to see if there is anything local. Valley Planing Mill is here in town and they might be able to get it for me.
I had not thought about those two sources but know of them. Thanks for the suggestion.
Re: First timer here with first question (of many I am sure)
Go to cedar unlimited/ Dix lumber in Green Bay wi