Hi Randy,
Thanks
I need to do a dry run on the clamping, but it seems I might have a good understanding of the fitting and gluing steps.
Bookmatching the bottom of the Redbird.
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Re: Bookmatching the bottom of the Redbird.
Hi Shawn, Randy has given a good outline ...in fact he mentored me through my first fitting ... so this is a little deja vu for me.
As with all things canoe, a dry fitting run is a good idea ... straps, shock cord ... use what ever you need to make the stem sit nice and tight. If you are lucky, it will be a good fit and require only minor hold down, or you may need to use a couple of restraints to get tit o fit snug.
Use epoxy for sure, and since the whole end and mortise are end grain, take a little time (say 5 minutes) to allow it drink as much epoxy as it will. Don't put it on too heavy, just keep adding more as it soaks in. Once it stays shiny, then thicken the remainder and "butter" both sides of the joint and bed the stem. Cleanup the squeeze out ... i usually use a gloved finger to do this and leave a little fillet right at the joint.
Good luck on the install.
Brian
As with all things canoe, a dry fitting run is a good idea ... straps, shock cord ... use what ever you need to make the stem sit nice and tight. If you are lucky, it will be a good fit and require only minor hold down, or you may need to use a couple of restraints to get tit o fit snug.
Use epoxy for sure, and since the whole end and mortise are end grain, take a little time (say 5 minutes) to allow it drink as much epoxy as it will. Don't put it on too heavy, just keep adding more as it soaks in. Once it stays shiny, then thicken the remainder and "butter" both sides of the joint and bed the stem. Cleanup the squeeze out ... i usually use a gloved finger to do this and leave a little fillet right at the joint.
Good luck on the install.
Brian
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Re: Bookmatching the bottom of the Redbird.
Ok -- so I have cut a mortise and it seems to make sense. but I am trying to understand two bits of info that I have that seem conflicting. the thickness of the strips is >1/4 inch and the drawing calls out a 3/8 thickness for the keel end of the stem, IIRC the book says that the stem is to be flush with the surface of the strips, which implies that one, the mortise will be cut an 1/8 of an inch into the inner stem or, two the outer stem will be 1/8 inch out from the hull surface, or three, the outer stem will be only a 1/4" thick at the terminus.
Any one have an opinion?
Shawn
Any one have an opinion?
Shawn
Re: Bookmatching the bottom of the Redbird.
Hi Shawn,
This may help, the link is to the section of my current build where I do the stems.
http://www.canoetripping.net/forums/for ... uild/page6
I think you may be overthinking the process, the mortise gets chiseled/cut even with the inner stem, the outer stem is beveled to fit and slides in to be re mated with the inner. That is why they are bent and glued on the same form in the beginning .... because they are destined to be rejoined ... sounds like a bad romance novel.
Hope this helps.
Brian
This may help, the link is to the section of my current build where I do the stems.
http://www.canoetripping.net/forums/for ... uild/page6
I think you may be overthinking the process, the mortise gets chiseled/cut even with the inner stem, the outer stem is beveled to fit and slides in to be re mated with the inner. That is why they are bent and glued on the same form in the beginning .... because they are destined to be rejoined ... sounds like a bad romance novel.
Hope this helps.
Brian
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Re: Bookmatching the bottom of the Redbird.
The outer stem should be 3/8" wide (port to starboard) at the keel end of the stem. It will be 3/4" thick initially and will sit into the mortise you cut which is just deep enough to reach the inner stem. Once it's all glued in place, you will shape the outer stem so it is fair with the rest of the hull. It's final thickness will be just thick enough to hit the inner stem and be fair with the outer surface of your strips.
hope this helps.
hope this helps.
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Re: Bookmatching the bottom of the Redbird.
I think it's ready to glue in. Here's the dry run of the clamping. The stem has a little twist, which I am going to muscle out of it.
Thanks for your help, gents.You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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Re: Bookmatching the bottom of the Redbird.
Carved Stem 1. I think this is pretty close to right.
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