B & C on 3/16 in strips

[Oregon Paddler]

I am looking to take my strip down to 3/16 [or to 0.21 in] to lighten the load a pit. I'm getting long in the tooth and truck is high. My question is about routing the strips For B & C. It would seem that the strips need to be at the final thickness in order to center the B & C. I have a set of 1/4 bits, would these work provided the bits are centered on the strip, or do I need to find some 3/16 bits?

Thanks

[Cruiser]

I found myself in exactly the same situation for this last build.

I made the decision to drop to 3/16" strips, use a 1/4" canoe bit set. Several things happen when using this strip thickness with the 1/4" canoe bit set 1) the cove is shallower 2) because the cove is shallower, the edges are less prone to breaking 3) the seating is not as secure and will pop on compound curve areas.

Although I found I could make them work and there are some advantages in that the edges don't break so easy, the canoe I built had quite a few curves that caused some issues making the strips hold during glueup, it all worked out, but if I had it to do again, I would use a 3/32" R bit set.

I documented my last build, 15' light weight tripper, here: https://www.canoetripping.net/forums/fo ... pper-build

You may find some information there that may be of some use, final weight was 32.5 pounds

Brian

[Oregon Paddler]

did you intend 5/32 bits?

[Cruiser]

OP,
I was quoting the radius, which is the common listing when you go to buy the bits, 1/4" bead and cove are cut with a 1/8" radius set, the 3/16" use a 3/32" radius set.

So if you go looking for a set, you might see either designation, but likely it will be the 3/23" R


Brian

[Jim Dodd]

I believe Nick Schade did a kayak with the thinner strips bead and coved.
I think he listed the source for the smaller radius bits.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ur1DXBcesCM&t=13s

[Oregon Paddler]

Thanks Jim & Brian. I am looking for 3/32 radius bits. I have found a Freud 1/2 round 3/32 radius. but have not found a tool yet to cut the cove. My router has a 1/4 in shank and I find that it seems to limit available bits. If I do not find one I'll just take them down to .21 or 0.22 and use the 1/4 in set I have.

Your experience and expertise is greatly appreciated.

Diego

[Jim Dodd]

I'm trying to share the Amazon link from Nick Schades video . Amazon has the coving bit. around $30.
https://www.youtube.com/redirect?redir_ ... escription

Click go to site.

Sorry ! I didn't see the 1/4" limit on your router !

Jim

[Cruiser]

Diego,
If you follow that build link from earlier, I posted some sites of bit suppliers

Brian

[Stephen]

Brian

These were the only bit suppliers I could find referenced in your thread.

A source for Beading Bit, also known as a Bull Nose https://www.freudtools.com/products/82-100

And the Coving Bit, also known as a Fluting Bit https://www.freudtools.com/products/99-030

Unfortunately the coving bit you listed is 3/16" R, not 3/32" R.


Diego

I looked a long time last night and tonight online for a 3/32" R 1/4" shank cove bit without success. I hope for your sake it isn't a mythical object.

Good luck
Stephen

[Cruiser]

Stephen ... tks for noting that was the wrong size radius on the cove/fluting bit, I was looking it up for the poster and i guess I didn't double check

Diego, i don't think it is a mythical hunt (at least i hope not, I plan to use in the future), here is something that should work

https://www.amazon.com/Magnate-6045-Mul ... B000W2XAOY




Brian

[Traveler]

Might be a bit late on this, but just finished b&c on 3/16 strips for my current build. The bead bit I got from Lee Valley Tools - it is part number 16J4803, 3/16" x 1/2" x 1/4" External Bull-Nose Bit – Full Radius. The cove bit is a triple flute bit from Magnate Tools that I got on Amazon, kind of weird looking but it works well - part number 6045 Multi-Fluting Router Bits - 3/32" Radius; 11/16" Cutting Length; 1/2" Shank Diameter. My first time doing b&c, so took a bit of time to dial things in, but happy with the results using theses bits. Hope this helps.

[Cruiser]

Thanks for posting Traveler .... maybe a build post with a few pics


Brian

[Jim Dodd]

A trick I've used since day one Bead and Coving strips, was to run my strips BETWEEN the bit and fence. If you have any variation in the width of your strips? Set the gap between the bit and fence. The first pass will make them the same. Very important if you want the strips to mate up on the ends.

You run the strips from left to right.


Jim

[Traveler]

That’s just the way I did It Jim. I read your posts on this elsewhere, and I like it as a great way to ensure your final strips are consistently the same height (especially important for me given that I have used a dogs breakfast of boards to get my strips, including ripping a beautifully clear 12 foot 4x4 post into “strippable” planks with my circular saw). Only I fed mine in from right to left - seemed to work fine as long as I had the feather boards firmly clamped to avoid shooting cedar strip arrows around my garage. Thanks

[Jim Dodd]

Looking forward to how you like working with the 3/16" strips !
I've been contemplating, going that route awhile.
Need to latch on to some bits !

Jim