What are the recommendations out there for the best fastening scew.
For canoe construction.
looking for (probably) a #6, robertson.
brass is too week.
chrome platted rusts.
stainless steel?
Doug
Screws
Screws
"Some people hear the song in the quiet mist of a cold morning..... But for other people the song is loudest in the evening when they are sitting in front of a tent, basking in the camp fire's warmth. This is when I hear it loudest ...." BM
Hi Doug. Try McFeely's http://www.mcfeelys.com/subcat.asp?subcat=20.1.5.8
Silicon bronze boatbuilding screws. They also have stainless and any other fastener you could ever want. Remember to lubricate them for easy driving.
Bud
Silicon bronze boatbuilding screws. They also have stainless and any other fastener you could ever want. Remember to lubricate them for easy driving.
Bud
Bud, thanks
What are you using to lubricate the screws, wax?
All the best,
Doug
What are you using to lubricate the screws, wax?
All the best,
Doug
"Some people hear the song in the quiet mist of a cold morning..... But for other people the song is loudest in the evening when they are sitting in front of a tent, basking in the camp fire's warmth. This is when I hear it loudest ...." BM
If the screws are being driven into softwood, you might prefer the reduced shank with a more aggressive thread. I used #6 1" SS rather than the type pictured above because the white pine needed a raised thread that wouldn't strip the wood out too easily. They were driven into a white pine inwale to fasten the ash outwales. Most of them held, but several still stripped out the wood and had to be redone... I doubt full-shank threads would have held as well. Available at Rona but not Home Depot or marine supply shops - SS is strong and the thinner shank will not break easily.
For hardwood, the full-shanked types should be better, but two different-sized holes need to be drilled, which adds on work. They will seal out water better because of the tighter fit, but the best way around this is to coat the drilled hole with epoxy on a pipe cleaner or nail, and then insert the screw. The SS screws don't need to be lubricated or waxed to break the epoxy bond when removed since they're strong and the surfaces are smooth.
For hardwood, the full-shanked types should be better, but two different-sized holes need to be drilled, which adds on work. They will seal out water better because of the tighter fit, but the best way around this is to coat the drilled hole with epoxy on a pipe cleaner or nail, and then insert the screw. The SS screws don't need to be lubricated or waxed to break the epoxy bond when removed since they're strong and the surfaces are smooth.
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Bryan Hansel
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Glen Smith
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I have a "toilet bowl" wax ring from the plumbing department. It is a soft wax, costs less than $2.00 and will probably last my lifetime. I also use it to plug the tip of caulking tubes. Just plunge the tube tip into the wax, wipe off the excess and recap. A tube of silicone opened three years ago is still usable!
Fasteners
There is nothing wrong with brass. Many people have problems with it because they do not take the time to drill the correct size pilot hole. With any screw, the pilot whole should be the diameter of the barrel of the screw. With brass, you have to put them in by hand and lubricate them with soap or wax. I have used brass on a number of canoes and have not had a problem. However, if you have the wrong size pilot and attempt to drive them with a cordless screwdriver, you will break them off and then it's a problem. Stainless also works well, but if the screws are going to be visible, then brass sure looks the best in my opinion.
If you are going to plug your screw holes with wood plugs, then I would use stainless or bronze, and not risk the brass.
If you are going to plug your screw holes with wood plugs, then I would use stainless or bronze, and not risk the brass.
brass screws
I usually use a steel screw first in the pilot hole then use the brass screw. I lube both with parrafin. When buying brass screws i also look for a steel screw that matches and buy a couple to put in the box of brass screws
Denis
Denis
A little off topic, but BRILLIANT. It drives me nuts tossing out old tubes of caulking that are only 10% used. Have you noticed any "contamination" of the silicone, that degrades its ability to adhere?Glen Smith wrote:...a "toilet bowl" wax ring .....use it to plug the tip of caulking tubes. Just plunge the tube tip into the wax, wipe off the excess and recap. A tube of silicone opened three years ago is still usable!
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Glen Smith
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Just a secondary thought and this would only pertain to the gunwales.
Why not just epoxy them on?
I don't imagine I will ever remove them.
Doug
Why not just epoxy them on?
I don't imagine I will ever remove them.
Doug
"Some people hear the song in the quiet mist of a cold morning..... But for other people the song is loudest in the evening when they are sitting in front of a tent, basking in the camp fire's warmth. This is when I hear it loudest ...." BM
I see no reason you can't, I did and they work just fine. I did how ever use epoxy thickened with fumed silca so it made a real nice paste
did the same for the inwales but used a short screw from the outside into the sculper blocks to act as clamps and for positioning. the Outwales I just used a lot of PVC Pipe C-clamps to hold it in place.
did the same for the inwales but used a short screw from the outside into the sculper blocks to act as clamps and for positioning. the Outwales I just used a lot of PVC Pipe C-clamps to hold it in place.
[/img]Doug wrote:Just a secondary thought and this would only pertain to the gunwales.
Why not just epoxy them on?
I don't imagine I will ever remove them.
Doug
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davidb54321
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For what it's worth, I plan on using SS screws from the inwale to the outwale,along with some thickened epoxy, then plugging the holes with matching plugs. I have not made up my mind about scuppers yet.
16' Prospector
16' Prospector
David Bartlett
"I don't fully understand everything I know!"
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That seems like a lot of extra work and expense for no need. If you screw into the inwale (or scupper blocks if you use them) from the outter hull this will help pull the inwale tight while the epoxy cures the epoxy takes over the job of holding after that. Then you can cover the heads of the screws with the outwale and epoxy just clamp it into place along the whole length ( I used PVC "C" clamps you can make them real cheap) after the epoxy cures the screws are totally encapsulated with epoxy so no moisture to cause corrosion or rusting there. and no holes to plugdavidb54321 wrote:For what it's worth, I plan on using SS screws from the inwale to the outwale,along with some thickened epoxy, then plugging the holes with matching plugs. I have not made up my mind about scuppers yet.
16' Prospector