Attaching outwales

STINGRAY8T · Post by **STINGRAY8T** » Tue Apr 12, 2005 8:12 am

I am hoping to attach my outer gunwales this weekend. I plan on using thickened epoxy only. It will give me a chance to use the vast array of clamps I have aquired during the stripping process. I have cut the gunwales to length and tapered the inside a bit. I am using MAS epoxy and have been very happy with it up to this point.

Does anyone have any suggestions, or pictures, showing a way to clamp the outer gunwales to the hull without damaging the already installed inwales and deck? I have dry fitted the gunwales but it gets a bit hairy at the bend at the ends of the canoe (the last 18 inches). It can be put in position but I don't know how to keep it there until the epoxy cures.

Thanks in advance to all the great help I have received up to know.

Tom

reinbilt · Post by **reinbilt** » Tue Apr 12, 2005 8:31 am

With your deck already installed you're probably going to need to screw the ends of your outwalls to the hull. Don't forget to wax the screws for removal after the epoxy cures then plug the holes. You could also counterbore the screws in those areas and plug the holes. A couple bar clamps with thick rubber padding to protect the outwalls might come in handy.

mtpocket · Post by **mtpocket** » Tue Apr 12, 2005 8:37 am

STINGRAY8T,

Sorry I don't have any pictures, but maybe a few helpful hints. Along the decks where the angle is difficult to manage a clamp, I made some wedge shaped blocks to compensate for the angle. I glued some old sand paper on the blocks to keep them from sliding then used masking tape to hold them temporarily. This freed up my hands for the clamps. Extra hands are nice, but not always available.
I used epoxy thickened with cabosil. This makes it more slippery at first. Something you want to watch out for is drips. Clean them up ASAP. If you don't, you will be sorry. I learned the hard way, and believe me, it was the HARD way. That stuff is like steel. I had a few drips and thought it would be easier to chip them off later instead of wiping them up and taking a chance on smearing them. Big mistake! When I tried to chip them off with a wood chisel they would not budge. I lightly tapped the chisel with a hammer and it came off, but took some of the good epoxy with it. More filling and sanding to do. Masking off would have been a better option. Also, old newspapers or plastic sheeting laid in the boat would have prevented the drips from getting on the hull.

Glen Smith · Post by **Glen Smith** » Tue Apr 12, 2005 9:15 am

Maybe the "home-made tool" used in this thread would help: http://www.bearmountainboats.com/phpbb2 ... agon+teeth

Rick · Post by **Rick** » Tue Apr 12, 2005 10:13 am

Stingray,

With 20/20 hindsight, I would have steamed and bent the gunnels to make the job easier - it probably will take more time, but the aggravation of keeping that wood properly clamped and in place just isn't worth it... JMHO.

I also clamped the outwale to the decks and inwales using short pieces of wood over top so that the outwale would be bent upwards flush with the deck and the inwale, then used more clamps to squeeze the outwales together, and to the hull.

Larry in Champaign · Post by **Larry in Champaign** » Tue Apr 12, 2005 11:16 am

I have a couple of photos on this page that show how I glued the outwales in place. Hope this helps.

https://netfiles.uiuc.edu/lwest/www/Bob ... page5.html

Post by **Patricks Dad** » Tue Apr 12, 2005 12:42 pm

Larry, Thanks for posting the link to your pictures. Very timely. Patrick and I have finished bending our gunwales and are about ready to put them on. We have our decks pieces (3 triangles each) glued up and ready to shape. We'll use some of your tips.

thanks!

STINGRAY8T · Post by **STINGRAY8T** » Tue Apr 12, 2005 1:24 pm

Thanks for all the advise.