Yup, you want the 1/8" radius for 1/4" strip thickness. You can also use these bits for thinner strips. I use a lot of 3/16" thick strips and I do the B & C with the 1/8" radius bits.
As David also said, feel free to butt in anytime.
Ripping - the first board went well, but the second didn't
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Glen Smith
- Posts: 3719
- Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 9:08 am
- Location: Baie-St-Paul, Quebec, Canada
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Peter Hyde
Re: thanks
Hi David James,
I am thinking that you shouldn't need so much force to rip cedar on a tablesaw. I have been a woodworker for 40 years and it always worries me when I hear people concerned with "getting a good grip"
So a few hints:
Use a brand new or freshly sharpened carbide tipped RIP bade, about 20 teeth on a 10" blade.
Make sure the fence is parallel with the blade
Remove the splitter as this normally causes a lot of binding against the fence.
Use good old kitchen wax paper scrunched up and rubbed on the table top and fence.
Adjust the board buddies so that the wheels are only lifted about 1/8' when your board is pushed underneath the wheel.
Make sure the first edge is perfectly straight. Use a jointer or long bench plane to dress that edge as true as possible
Position your body so that the right hand holds the end of the board behind the body. The board should be held tight to your stomach/hip and supported in front of your body by the left hand. Keeping you feet apart about a foot. The board is moved into the saw by leaning forward on the balls of your feet. Keep relaxed and shuffle your feet forward as necessaryt to maintain your balance and a steady slow feed speed. You actually should "feel" when the board is in good contact with the fence and the table.
I have never used an infeed table extension because this causes problems if the board is twisted.
Use a waxed outfeed table and/or rollers to support the strips as they come off the saw.
Don't be too concerned about every strip being exactly 0.25 within thousands of an inch! When the hull is faired some of those strips will be only 0.125 if you are lucky!
I hope you can get something from this post.
Good luck!
I am thinking that you shouldn't need so much force to rip cedar on a tablesaw. I have been a woodworker for 40 years and it always worries me when I hear people concerned with "getting a good grip"
So a few hints:
Use a brand new or freshly sharpened carbide tipped RIP bade, about 20 teeth on a 10" blade.
Make sure the fence is parallel with the blade
Remove the splitter as this normally causes a lot of binding against the fence.
Use good old kitchen wax paper scrunched up and rubbed on the table top and fence.
Adjust the board buddies so that the wheels are only lifted about 1/8' when your board is pushed underneath the wheel.
Make sure the first edge is perfectly straight. Use a jointer or long bench plane to dress that edge as true as possible
Position your body so that the right hand holds the end of the board behind the body. The board should be held tight to your stomach/hip and supported in front of your body by the left hand. Keeping you feet apart about a foot. The board is moved into the saw by leaning forward on the balls of your feet. Keep relaxed and shuffle your feet forward as necessaryt to maintain your balance and a steady slow feed speed. You actually should "feel" when the board is in good contact with the fence and the table.
I have never used an infeed table extension because this causes problems if the board is twisted.
Use a waxed outfeed table and/or rollers to support the strips as they come off the saw.
Don't be too concerned about every strip being exactly 0.25 within thousands of an inch! When the hull is faired some of those strips will be only 0.125 if you are lucky!
I hope you can get something from this post.
Good luck!